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Exploring The Abandoned Beatles Ashram in the Indian Himalayas.

Exploring The Abandoned Beatles Ashram in the Indian Himalayas.

October 2021 · 4 min read · India

In two days, a film about the Beatles will be released that documents the time they spent in India during the 1960’s. The ashram they lived at, and subsequently penned most tracks from the ‘White Album’ now lies abandoned in the foothill of the Himalayas, on the outskirts of Rishikesh.

A cow on the road to the Ashram.
A cow on the road to the Ashram.

When me and wife were in Rishikesh I was excited to learn, even though it’s technically illegal to explore the huge ashram it’s fairly common for backpackers to do so at the help of a few local crooks.

The directions were vague, like they always are in India- ‘Head along the river until the town and road slowly ebb into forest. All that remains is a dirt path and if you follow that you will come to an entrance. Someone will see to you on approach. Offer cash. About 1 hour walking.’

The original entrance. The green and red sign is an Indian Government Warning.
The original entrance. The green and red sign is an Indian Government Warning.

True enough, we just walked down river until the bustle stopped, the buildings stopped, the road came to an end and lo and behold hidden in the forest down an old dirt path we saw an old stone domed entrance and a tall rusty fence on each side.

A meditation and living quarter for one person. The top dome had perfect acoustics, the centre part a sleeping space and cooking area on the bottom.
A meditation and living quarter for one person. The top dome had perfect acoustics, the centre part a sleeping space and cooking area on the bottom.

Standing in the shadows was the same thin Indian man I’d come across in all states, white vest, gold necklace, cigarette, moustache. We later discovered he doesn’t actually do anything and if you walk 50m north, the fence stops, and you can just enter the complex for free. However, we happily paid our $10 or so and walked through the original entrance, the same one the Beatles and loads of other stars wandered through in their hey-day. That in itself was worth the ten bucks.

A collection of domes.
A collection of domes.
Perhaps the main residence? It was the grandest looking building on the complex with a swimming pool.
Perhaps the main residence? It was the grandest looking building on the complex with a swimming pool.

It’s hard to explain just how incredible this place is. Even without its romantic connection to an era-gone by that was so significant for pop culture, it’s an urban explorers wet dream. We had no idea just how big it was. I was expecting a few buildings, much disrepair but I was wrong. The entire place is about 14 acres. There’s peacocks and monkeys everywhere, and small little temples used for sleeping and meditation. Travellers and artists have completely covered the inside of these buildings with the finest of street, I guess I will let the pictures carry you through our experience from now.

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In the centre there is a block of flats. Or a hotel... it’s about 15 levels high and has three beautiful marble meditation eggs on top of them that give the most astounding acoustics.
In the centre there is a block of flats. Or a hotel... it's about 15 levels high and has three beautiful marble meditation eggs on top of them that give the most astounding acoustics.
The Beatles Church.
The Beatles Church.

In the centre is what the travellers call the Beatles Church. The artists above were returning after 15 years to repaint a mural that they painted which had fallen into disrepair. They were planning a gig/ concert/ rave in the church that night but sadly we couldn't stay.

Artists touch up the mural.
Artists touch up the mural.
One of the original cobbled walkways with housing on either side.
One of the original cobbled walkways with housing on either side.
Inside one of the small single person meditation eggs.
Inside one of the small single person meditation eggs.
More residential buildings for guests and students.
More residential buildings for guests and students.

I hope you enjoyed these images. I won't talk about the controversy surrounding the place, the bad things that happened there, just watch the documentary and it will fascinate you. And if you visit India this should be top of your list.

Have a nice day,

Cotton.

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