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Mauritius #3 – A new generation is changing the faded old Chinatown

Mauritius #3 – A new generation is changing the faded old Chinatown

June 2019 · 4 min read · Port Louis

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Chinatown is the heart of the Chinese community in Port Louis. It covers a few blocks between the two «Friendship gates» on Royal Street. Maybe the smallest Chinatown in the world outside China! Despite its size it is a center of commerce. When the Chineese immigrants settled along and around Royal Street, they started trading. Along the streets one will find shops selling almost anything. There are still some traditional pharmacies selling medicine, herbal tees, spices and preserved insects among other things. Even a fortuneteller is still supposed to be here!




During my walking tour through Chinatown, I saw immediately that it has changed since last time I was here (December 2017) The place has really got a new look. A lot more street art, decorated houses, sculptures and «plastic dragons». Someone has made good use of empty plastic bottles and turned into dragons. The "dragons head" is placed on top of a building. The body is moving in and out of walls on other buildings. The feet are placed on top of another wall! In other words, a huge "dragon" covering several streets!



For many years Chinatown was a bustling senter of commerce. Traces of the past still remain. Such as the Chinese Middle School where Mandarin is still tought. The historic Chinatown used to be a vibrant, bustling area. It has changed over the years because of neglect. The young generation are leaving, mainly oversees, to study. Many don't come back. Many family shops have had to close, as a result.




While here, I have learned from locals, that a group of the young people have formed The New Chinatown Foundation in order to preserve their heritage. Besides bringing artists to town, they have organized maintenence of neglected buildings, street cleaning and a group of volunteers to patrol the streets at night to keep people safe.



Dr.Sun Yat-Sen Street. The signs here in Chinatown are both in English and Chineese. The picture with Dr. Sun Yat-Sen was not here last time (2017) I was here. He was a revolutionary and politician who played an important role when the Quing dynasty was overthrown. He was one of the founders of the Kuomintang National Party and became the first provisional president when the Republic of China was founded in 1912. ( I actually had to google this!)


Futher up the same street I found more images of Dr.Sun Yat-sen. While I was taken photos, a Chinese man stopped, pointed at the portraits and said: «that is The Boss». We had a litle talk about the new look of Chinatown. He told me that it is The New Chinatown Foundation that has brought artists from China, who in collaboration with locals have been responsible for all the decorations and murals. He also told me that they do not receive government support.




Street food is easy, quick and cheap. Dumplings are popular.. The Chinese food here in Mauritius is not like the food in China. This is Chinese food with a Mauritian touch! Something sweet on the photo above. Two small sweets made of rice flour and sweet potatoes.



This is one of my favourite murals, painted here in Chinatown in 2017. I wanted to see it again. She is not the only one on this wall. She shares the wall with the «dragon» moving part of his body  in and out of the wall over her.




This mural was also painted last year after the initiative of The New Chinatown Foundation. The artist is Wang Jian, who has painted the Peking Opera Mask – one of the symbols of Chinese traditional culture.



This is just a little selection of paintings. There is a lot more. I am sure there will be more and that this is only the start of a «new Chinatown».


Please do follow if you want to keep up with my next travel story. Any upvotes or resteems are hugely appreciated!

Latest travel stories, check out :
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U.J

Kristiansand, Norway

All the photoes are mine, Ulla Jensen (flickr, Instagram and facebook)


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