Norway – To the «End of Europe»

digi-me
digi-me @digi-meAugust 2019 · 5 min read

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Hamningberg is an abandoned fishing village in the extreme northeast corner of Norway. The village lies at the end of the road which is why it is considered to be «the End of Europe». It is only accesable in the summer months. During winter the road is closed and the only access is snowmobile. Most of the old traditional houses from the 1800s are still here. Unlike many other places in Finnmark county Hamningberg was not burnt by the Germans during WWII. The last stretch of road before Hamningberg, along the Barents Sea offers spectacular scenery. It is worth travelling all the way to the end just to enjoy that scenery.



I was visiting a friend on the Varanger Peninsula, which was my first trip to an arctic area. Since I live in the southernmost part of Norway I wanted to experience the special landscape, learn about the history and the people who live in this rather inhospitable part of our country.



The road from Vardø to Hamningberg runs along one of the National Scenic Routes in Norway. The only road connection to Hamningberg is via this 40 km. long stretch from Vardø. But this stretch is an exciting ride in itself. Seeing reindeer close to the road was for me just as exciting. They don't live in my part of the country.



The road is narrow and winding its way along the coast. It passes through a barren and desolate landscape - a "lunar landscape" that is unique in the world context. Sky, sea and mountains blend together and it felt like there is no particular distance between the elements.


We did some stops along the way to walk along old shorelines and took time to pick blueberries and mulberry. The landscape is composed of grey or black rocks with sharp edges. It did look a bit sinister in itself. We didn’t meet many other cars either. It was cloudy, but not dark. I quess that if dark clouds should appear it sertainly will add a dramatic touch to the scenery! It actually looks as a scene from Lord of the Rings.


There was peculiarity and silence over the landscape along this road. It's hard to explain, but it felt a bit like time stopped a bit.


Then we saw Hamningberg and knew we were at the end. We parked the car at a parking lot. There was a map of the village and an information board with a brief introduction to the history. Except for a few other cars, we were very alone, which added a bit of a ghostly atmosphere to the place.



But we started to read the information: Around year 1900 there were 250 people living in Hamningberg. Due to the rich resources Hamningberg was one the largest fishing villages in eastern Finnmark at that time. During the Pomor trade (which means trade between Russia and the people along the coast of northern Norway) Norway traded fish for timber. The houses are wooden, but there are no trees growing in that part of the country.



Today the houses are empty except for a few who live here in the summer months. The depopulation began at the same time as the modernization of fisheries around the turn of the century. The people here had then given up the long battle to get a larger quay. Without it only small boats could fish from here. The fishing village with its traditions closed and only a few retirees remained. The end came in 1965 and the last people moved out in the 1970s.



We took a look at the little church which has been closed for years. We found this photo on one of the walls. It’s a photo of the last 3 permanent residents. Below it says that the last one left in 1978.




As we walked around among the buildings we had noticed some activity that testified that someone lives here. An elderly man mending his small boat talked to us and could tell us about the different traditional houses here. Some were built in the 1800s. Some after 1900. He pointed out some of the houses and said that many of them were prefabricated in Russia and were only put together after arrival in the village. These old, empty houses are standing as silent witnesses of a bygone era.



This stone tells the story of the rescue operation carried out by the rescue ship "Colin Archer" on May 20th and 21th 1894. The old man told us that it was the first year the ship was put into operation. On the night of May 20th there was a storm in the area. Although many of the boats were already on shore there were several vessels at sea. Therefore, a message was sent to Vardø where the only ship advisable to leave port was RS "Colin Archer". They managed to rescue 22 people with whom they returned to Vardø. They had to set out again and rescue 14 people after 18 hours of effort. This rescue operation was important for the newly formed Rescue Company and the people along the Barents Sea. I had not heard the excact story before, but I had heard the name «Colin Archer» before.




We left the old man and walked to the end of the road to the small lighthouse and along an arctic beach spotting for whales. We did not see any, but enjoyed the total tranquility. Hamningberg is a place time seems to stand still. One can only image what it must have been like living here.


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U.J

Kristiansand, Norway

All the photoes are mine, Ulla Jensen (flickr, Instagram and facebook)


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This is some cool images. This is an awesome and very interesting travel article. The images are very high quality. This looks like a quiet location for relaxation.

Keep up the great work @digi-me


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digi-me
digi-me @digi-meAugust 2019

Thanks for stopping by. It is a great location for relaxation. You feel so close to nature as well. People who used to live here had to live their lives in close connection to the land and sea.


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Beautiful place indeed. Even the abandoned houses look attractive. I admire your country's architecture and colorful houses.

The place may be intimidating too, due to the low population and extreme weather (I am asuming it can get extreme).
And yet, there is some appeal too in that desolation.
I loved the image of the berries. Such a nice contrast with the rough scenery.


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digi-me
digi-me @digi-meAugust 2019

Thanks for stopping by. The weather can get rough here. In winter even worse....The old house (grey ones) are from around 1800. Even it felt a bit "ghostly" it is appealing at the same time. Time does seem to stand still up there.


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Very nice pictures of this end of the Europe. It's good to have the history about this ghost town. Thanks for sharing, quite interesting.


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digi-me
digi-me @digi-meAugust 2019

Thanks :) It is very different from my part of the country. The good thing is that we were able to read a brief introduction to this abondoned, isolated place. But the best thing was the old man. He probably had a lot of stories he could tell....


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Meet local people who want to share the history where they live is always interesting... The unexpected encounters make the best memories.


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digi-me
digi-me @digi-meAugust 2019

Yeah. The best way there is...


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Hai Boss.,
Another wonderful travelogue. I think no special mention or writeup required for to let you know that these are another set of amazing photographs. Its a good feeling to know about a new place, some new set of landscapes and culture.
Have a nice day... Cheers


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digi-me
digi-me @digi-meAugust 2019

Thanks a lot. You are kind :) We are lucky to live on a planet with so much diverse landscape, people, cultures... There is so much to discover. Have a nice day you too :)


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Exactly you said it boss, we are lucky to have so much diverse location on this earth such that there would be no end to have new places to explore in our life time. And we are happy to have people like you around as we gets to see the beauty of these rare locations through wonderful photographs and little details.

Thank you, Have a nice day'


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Very interesting travel post right till the end! How sad when an era and a way of life ends like that. I loved your photos too. They told the story well.


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digi-me
digi-me @digi-meAugust 2019

Thank you :)


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You are very welcome.


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digi-me
digi-me @digi-meAugust 2019

Thanks a lot for your support :)


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Amazing trip! It struck me! You have beautiful photos. And Cute deer))) I love Norway. You have a very unusual atmosphere and people. I am from Ukraine, but I learn Norwegian and have some friends from Norway. I have never been to Norway, but I really hope that I get there ...
I dream of working as a lighthouse keeper or rebuilding some abandoned commune.

Tusen takk for historien din))!


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digi-me
digi-me @digi-meAugust 2019

Wow! you learn Norwegian! that is great. I hope to get here one day. You know you can book a holiday staying in a lighthouse. It is cheep, but could be intresting for you if you want to work there. Good luck with your project :)


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Sometimes I think that if I can develop some kind of abandoned commune and propose such a project to the government ... I do music and design and I think I could come up with something ... I just like desert places. It is very difficult to get to Norway to live there. my wife and I filed many job applications with knowledge of the Norwegian language. But there is a lot of bureaucracy ...

Thank you for your kind words!

Ps: how much does it cost to rent a lighthouse approximately?)


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digi-me
digi-me @digi-meAugust 2019

Hi again, I hope you make it. A good thing is that you know the language. I think your idea is great. Try to contact the city counsils maybe... Or just come for a holiday and then you check out things while here.

The lighthouses has different prices.It depends on the lighthouse, where it is situated and the season, but not as expensive as a hotel. Check: https://lighthousesofnorway.com/ good luck :)


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Wow! Tusen takk for site!!!)


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digi-me
digi-me @digi-meAugust 2019

You are welcome :)


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