Discovering the coast of Cantabria: Castro Urdiales

The origins of Castro Urdiales, are lost in that dark, infinite night of history, when man, undoubtedly helpless and pathetically frightened in the face of this magnificent environment, took refuge in caves, on whose walls he left testimony of his rites and his anguish

Cited by Pliny the Elder and Ptolemy, he also suffered the consequences of the so-called Cantabrian wars - which attracted prestigious archaeologists and anthropologists, such as the German Adolf Schulten - and the establishment of Roman invading colonies, which named it Flaviobriga in honor of Emperor Tito Flavio Vespasiano, as was customary at the time.

They say of Castro Urdiales, which is the third most important city in Cantabria, after Santander and Torrelavega, although its situation makes it closer to the Basque Country, being only thirty-five kilometers that separate it from Bilbao.

In this sense, and as later other coastal and relevant places of the Cantabrian, during the Middle Ages Castro Urdiales knew the impressive traffic of people and pilgrims, either coming from the Basque coastal roads or arriving at its port in the fragile ships of the time, they rested in their inns, to retake some roads, that although difficult, guaranteed them not to meet the Muslim invader who then practically dominated the Iberian Peninsula.

Of these times, they offer an excellent testimony, its castle-lighthouse of Santa Ana and in the vicinity of it, the impressive gothic church of Santa María de la Asunción, incorporating in its genuine structure, all the elements and keys of that authentic language of the birds turned into stone, which the mysterious French author and alchemist Fulcanelli, author of the famous book 'The mystery of the cathedrals' already defined as argotic or goetic and that causes so many suspicions among researchers or simply amateurs.

Although it is true, that saltpeter and erosion have affected many of the sculptural figurations, depriving us, in some cases, of observing with total guarantee certain details that surely served as a point of reference to the pilgrim for their transcendental adventure, still retain their External sculptures sufficient solvency to offer us details of an era, the medieval one, which far, it seems, was to be as dark as we wanted to expose it.

The houses of the old port, also retain that geometric fantasy and those relevant colors, which characterize the seafaring houses all along the Cantabrian coast.

However, in the case of Castro Urdiales, they seem to contrast in a remarkable way, if we compare them with the lush buildings and modernist mansions, which develop an authentic architectural fantasy, eternally looking at a sea, the Cantabrian, with a reputation for character, which However, it has been the cradle of an authentic breed of fishermen, of international fame.

This happened, above all, in the past centuries, when the hunting and persecution of the whale gave rise to countless legends and even the creation of great masterpieces of Universal Literature, such as that under the title of 'Moby Dick' , created the writer Herman Melville, with an argument that, well understood, fully introduces us to the origins of the deepest myths of humanity.

Surely inherited from the great Biscayan traditions, whose proximity we have already commented, also in Castro Urdiales, in its arcades and in the taverns adjacent to the port, the traveler, the tourist or the pilgrim can enjoy these generous culinary pleasures, which under the name Pintxos and accompanied by a good wine, such as Verdejo or Txacolí, contribute greatly to increase a genuine sensory experience, always at the edge of a sea that surprises with the wonderful blue and green tones of its waters.

It is also a true sensory experience, walking along the promenade, enjoying the beauty of the coast on one side and the nobility of some fantasy buildings, which highlight the relevance and importance of a city, Castro Urdiales, which according to look, sit down and understand, seems to be anchored in two different worlds, but certainly antagonistic.

NOTICE: Both the text and the accompanying photographs are my exclusive intellectual property.

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