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Epic whale birthing sites on Africa’s southernmost shoreline

Epic whale birthing sites on Africa’s southernmost shoreline

August 2022 · 5 min read · Western Cape

Life on the south Cape coast of Africa is just awesome at the moment. Spring is just around the corner and the whales are in the bay for their annual calving season. There are about three well-known bays along the southern coast of Africa where whales are known to frequent. One is in False Bay in Cape Town, the other is in Hermanus just outside Cape Town and the third is here in Plettenberg Bay about 550 kms east of Cape Town.

Waves washing up in Plettenberg Bay with whales jut offshore under the surface
Waves washing up in Plettenberg Bay with whales jut offshore under the surface

I have had the opportunity and good fortune to glimpse a whale just briefly so far this season. They seem to be quite illusive, so I don’t have any photos of them, just the rare glimpse from the shore recently. Nevertheless, the lengthening sunny days way down south are truly inspiring for locals and travelers alike.

By spending more time on the local hiking trail that hugs the shoreline in the holiday town of Plettenebrg Bay, I aim to catch further sightings of our visiting whales this year. Their birthing time lasts about four months so I have some time to observe them in the bay, perhaps until October. The season of change is upon us with the Equinox less than a month away.

Indigenous vegetation growing right up to the shoreline
Indigenous vegetation growing right up to the shoreline

By spending plenty of time outdoors and surrounded by nature, I’m able to feel more attuned to the subtle shifts in the seasons. Farmers and sailors are familiar with this. The climatic conditions are crucially important to their lifestyle. For travelers the shifting climate can also be an important factor in our choice of destination.

Besides that though, my current hiking trail on the shoreline of Plettenberg Bay remains awesome and appealing throughout the year. Any season or climate is fine for me to take a few hours outdoors for further exploration. Heavy rains may come for a while but they subside soon enough. The heaviest downpours only last minutes really, with plenty of gaps in between.

Lush vegetation making the shoreline more habitable
Lush vegetation making the shoreline more habitable 

Of course the climate does affect the visuals and natural setting when I’m on the hiking trail. Grey overcast skies result in a grey seascape, and bright sun-filled blue skies result in an equally blue or turquoise sea. Otherwise the ocean has a dark green hue to it, some might call it aquamarine.

The most beautiful settings are created when the sky is at its clearest, which results in a beautiful light turquoise sea which appears translucent in places. I’m sure coastal dwellers have seen something similar in places. A similar setting is visible in this region of Plettenberg Bay and all along the southernmost shores of Africa.

The cliff slopes where the hiking trail leads us from top to shoreline
The cliff slopes where the hiking trail leads us from top to shoreline

When the turquoise sea washes up against the earthy ochre rocks on the shoreline, it makes for a grand dichotomy and contrast as the one juxtaposes the other, highlighting the inspiring natural colors even more. I may end up living in a tent by the seaside in this awesome stretch of coastline. It appeals to me more than trying to live with people or pay money for something that’s free, like the sun and the sea.

Life has little to offer a person like me. I’m finished with sense gratification or desire. With no desires left, I am liberated. The only desire is to be situated in a peaceful and pleasant place just like this bay with no people around and a small fresh water stream nearby. The hermit in a cave is truly the life I crave until I see my grave.

A hermit cave in the distance, more like an arched cathedral
A hermit cave in the distance, more like an arched cathedral

The whales and sea birds will be great company. They are inspiring and uplifting to see and hear. Baboons can be a bit more interesting since they are more curious, especially when there is food, so survival in the hermit cave is a romantic pipe dream easily smashed by the troop of baboons that roam along these shores.

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At this late stage in my life, after 50 years, the shoreline remains the same and is unchanging in such a short time. Perhaps hundreds of years will need to pass before some shift is seen. So the timeless beauty of the Plettenberg Bay will always be an inspiration for the rare few who manage to see it.

The rough and rugged rocky beach free of any human inhabitants
The rough and rugged rocky beach free of any human inhabitants

Fortunately I can share these rare photos with you, like those of a deserted remote tropical island not seen by anyone else. I am perhaps one of only a handful of people who actually see this stretch of coastline since it’s just so tricky to access. And today I am able to capture it for posterity by publishing my photos for your viewing pleasure.

If you ever get the opportunity to travel to Africa then be sure to look up this stretch of the southernmost coastline called the Garden Route, and come and find Plettenberg Bay. You will be able to see these hidden coves for yourself and live to tell the tale. Just like the seasonal whale.

(photos my own)

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