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Hiking in Autumn #1 - from Jiadengyu to Hemu/ 北疆徒步之旅#1-贾登峪禾木

Hiking in Autumn #1 - from Jiadengyu to Hemu/ 北疆徒步之旅#1-贾登峪禾木

October 2018 · 6 min read · 禾木哈纳斯蒙古民族乡

Xinjiang, China is a very beautiful place. There are various landscapes. I love the fall colors in north of Xinjiang especially in autumn. Large area of white birches and larches turn into golden at that time. One a time I chose several hiking trials for the fall color photography. I will introduce to steemians in my blog continually. You will get better and better:)

新疆是一个非常美丽的地方,一年四季都有不同的景色。我尤其喜欢北疆的秋色,到了秋天,北疆的白桦树、落叶松将会变成金黄一片,非常震撼。曾经有一年国庆我们专门挑选几条秋色很美的路线进行徒步,我将会在接下来的博客中持续更新我的北疆徒步之旅,越到后面越美哦:)


Today I will introduce our first trail: from Jiadengyu, Burqin, Altay to Hemukanasixiang, Burqin, Altay. This is a classical and one of most beautiful trail in China. The trail is about 30 Kilometers. It's easy to hiking. Actually, I had hiked this trial in 2008. But it was always drizzling. It was not good for the photography. But I had shocked by the beautiful scenery. I thought I would come back to here again for the photography. Fortunately, I caught the time with a good weather and finished this trail.

今天我将会向大家介绍我们徒步的第一站:贾登峪到禾木,这是北疆一条非常经典的徒步路线,难度不高,但是景色非常美丽。其实这条路线我在秋天的时候走过两次,第一次走的时候,刚好遇上一路的毛毛雨,不是很适合摄影,但是其靓丽的色彩和风景没有拍好让我一直耿耿于怀,于是乎四年后我决定再次徒步这条线路。终于皇天不负有心人,第二次有遇上不错的天气。

My wife and my friends flied from Shanghai, China to Urumqi, Xinjiang, China at the end of September. And took a bus to go to Altay, Xinjiang at night without stay. We rent a car and driver to our departure route of hiking when we got to Altay at he next morning. Jiadengyu is the entry of a famous scenery spot - Kanas. It's very beautiful too. It will be introduce in my later blog.

我们一行四人从上海出发,9月底坐飞机到乌鲁木齐,然后当天晚上从乌鲁木齐坐大巴到阿勒泰,早上到达阿勒泰包车直达贾登峪,我们就是从这里出发开始徒步我们的第一条线路:贾登峪到禾木。其实贾登峪就是著名的喀纳斯风景区的入口,离喀纳斯只有几十公里而已,但那不是我们今天的主角。


Due to much more visitors to the Kanas scenery spot, more and more guesthouses are built here.

由于喀纳斯每年需要接待大量的游客,而喀纳斯景区里面又不允许住游客,因此贾登峪开始建设起了宾馆。


The Kazak yurts / 哈萨克族毡房

In fact, the local population is mainly composed of kazakhs. The Kazakhs are very nice and hardworking nomods. Usually they are living in a kind of easy to set up and disassemble yurt in sprint, summer and autumn. It's convenient for the migration of grazing.

其实当地居民主要是由哈萨克族构成,哈萨克族是个善良、勤劳的游牧民族,一般在春、夏、秋三季住一种易于支撑和拆卸的毡房,以便于逐水草而放牧迁徙。



The red line on the map outlines our hiking trail from Jiadengyu to Hemu


It was about 1:00 PM when we got to Jiadengyu. Because we would took two days for the trial. It was enough time for us to get to the halfway inn. So we rent a guide and two horses to lead and take our tents and luggage. We took the camera gears by ourselves and started our hiking immediately.

从贾登峪到禾木的徒步线路大约有30公里,虽然我们到达贾登峪已经是中午时分,大约下午1点,但是由于我们准备分两天走完这段路程,所以,剩余的时间足够我们到达我们住宿的地方“半路客栈”。在贾登峪租了个当地的向导和两匹马,帮我们驮帐篷、行李等装备,自己只背着摄影装备就开始出发了。


When we climbed up a hill and look back to the Jiadengyu . I took a photo. You can see that it locates in a beautiful valley. The golden tree are surrounded in autumn. No much more visitors know and hike this trial. So the visitors here are far less than Kanas scenery spot.

这便是我们出发后回望贾登峪的全景,其实贾登峪是在一个美丽的山谷里。徒步线路上的人远不如进入喀纳斯风景区的人多,但是景色也绝不逊于喀纳斯风景区。


I remembered that we could walk along on a riding track for horses only in 2008. Now you can drive a SUV on this road. Maybe it's not a good idea for the hikers.

以前这条徒步路线只能在山间小道里走,现在都可以通车了,也许为了开发一条旅游线路,但是会有一定的破坏性,这对我们这些驴子来说并不是什么好事。


When we over a hillside after walking about 4 or 5 Kilometers we saw what a beautiful landscape. Here were golden mountains, green trees, the cows eating on the grass and the beautiful Kanas river winds through the valleys. We were so excited. We lifted the camera involuntarily and took the shots even the light was not good enough.

当徒步4、5公里后经过一个不太高的山坡时,忽然发现仿佛黄绿色的调色板从高大的山坡上倾泻而下,美丽的喀纳斯河蜿蜒穿行而过,牛羊在草地上安静的吃着草,生长在内陆城市的我们此时此刻其实是无法抑制心中的兴奋心情的。


Went down the slope and crossed the Bulalehan bridge. Then turned right and went along with the Kanas river.

走下山坡后,必须经过以下这条达布拉勒汉桥并向右拐,沿着马道顺着河流下游的方向一直走下去即可。



The above photo was taken on the bridge. And the below two photos were taken around the bridge.

这是在桥上以及周围拍的景色。




Soon after, the road started to rise. The view was starting to get wider also.

过桥后走不远的地方马道的地势就开始慢慢上升,视野也开始慢慢变得更加开阔。


On both sides of the river are evergreen pines, larches and birches. Golden trees and green trees intertwine in autumn.

喀纳斯河和禾木河两边常年覆盖着常绿松、落叶松和白桦树,所以秋天的时候,黄的、绿的相辉交映。




The light became soft when sunset. When the worm lights on the golden tree, you can easy to get thicker and richer colors of photos.

当太阳快下山的时候,阳光不再那么强烈,温暖柔和的光线洒在金黄的树叶上,可以让色彩显得更加厚重且层次分明。


The place we encamped is where the halfway inn locates. It's easy to recognize even without guide. Because there is no other wooden house except the one of beside the Bulalehan bridge. The conditions of the inn would not be good. Obviously, we encamped here for the night. BTW. It's very cold at night in north of Xinjiang after the end of the September. Some times the temperature drops below zero.

上图便我们第一天到达的半路客栈的地方,此路线一路上除了达布拉勒汉桥那边有一个木屋之外,都没什么房子,因此是否到达半路客栈的地方是时分容易辨别的。你也可以选择在这半路客栈住宿,但是条件肯定不会很好。非常明显晚上我们就是在客栈旁边扎营的。顺别提一下,9月底到10月的时候北疆晚上的气温已经非常低了,有可能会到零度以下。来旅游的朋友们,请注意你的装备准备情况。


We started the hiking at 12:00 am Beijing time at the next day. Because the time zone here is later than Beijing 2 hours. It was morning yet for Xinjiang. There is the intersection of Kanas river and Hemu river not far away from the halfway inn. The two rivers meet here and become Burqin river. The Burqin river will flow into the Irtysh river in China and then flows through Russia into the Arctic Ocean. All of the river are flowing from west to east in China except this river that flowing from south to north.

自己做了早餐后,大约12点左右我们继续出发,请大家注意的时候,新疆比北京晚2个时区。走不远处便是喀纳斯河和禾木河交汇的地方,两条河交汇后便是布尔津河,布尔津河会注入额尔齐斯河,额尔齐斯河最终流经俄罗斯注入北冰洋,也是我国唯一一条由南向北流向的河流。


Walking over the intersection of the rivers you can see Hemu river. The water is clear and different to the Kanas river. The water color of Kanas river is blue and white. Because the water is coming from the snow mountain.

过了交汇处,一路看到的禾木河的水就是清澈而透明的,而喀纳斯河的水是成蓝白色,因为喀纳斯河是来自于雪山的水。


The trees in the gulch across the river looks so bright in the sunlight. In fact, there is a large lawn, is also a grazing place.

这组生长在河对面山坳里的树木在阳光的照射下显得异常的鲜艳夺目。其实对面有一大片草坪,也是放牧的地方。



Sometime, when you look back to the route you will find a different landscape. The leaves of white birch become shiny yellow in autumn when the rain is plentiful. This photo was shooting against the light. So it looks have the golden shining.

这便是我们走过的路,有时候走走回头看看,你会发现有不一样的风景, 白桦树的黄叶子在雨水充足的情况下,其黄色是呈油亮油亮的黄色的,非常漂亮。而这张照片又刚好属于强逆光拍摄,所以黄叶显得像金子般闪耀而靓丽。




We were walking in the autumn under the blue sky and white clouds, it is very refreshing!

走在蓝天白云下的秋日风光里,很是神清气爽!


There was another hiking team. Maybe you will find that there are few trees on some mountains. The north side of mountains are always woody and the south side of mountains are only a few trees in north Xinjiang. I don't know why yet.

这是路上遇上的另一队人马在休息。这里的山的阳面是比较光的,树木较少,而阴面却是树木茂密。


We walked slowly with taking photos for 4 hours. We came to a meadow. If you see that it's not far away from Hemu village.

我们走走停停,一路拍照,大概4小时候后,来到一个牧场,当你看到这个牧场是,那么离禾木村也就不太远了。

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I will introduce to you the beautiful Hemu village in my next post. To be continue...

下一站禾木乡,待续……

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All photos are original and taken by me.

Camera Gears


Camera: Canon 5D Mark II and Canon 500D

Lens: Canon EF 17-40/4L, EF 70-200D/2.8L, EF 50/1.4

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