Lysefjord: Trekking over blue water

There are over 1.000 fjords in Norway, but the Lysefjord is without doubt one of the most beautiful. The picturesque rocky outcrop in Ryfylke east of Stavanger (Rogaland province) in the south of Norway is known for its two major attractions Kjeragbolden (my travel story) and Preikestolen (my travel story). But there is much more to see here than just the Preikestolen, a platform of rock rising out of the rock, and the Kjeragbolden, a chunk of rock wedged between rock walls.

That starts already with the journey. Those who come from Stavanger use the ferry here like a bus. Deep in the bottom of the fjord you pass the enchanting nature of the Lysefjord region. The rocks rise up to 700 metres steeply, the water is similar to that which splashes around a South Sea island.

But of course it is colder here. Even in summer it never gets really hot. Instead, rain must be expected, because altitude and water constantly create temperature differences that require compensation. In addition, the Atlantic is not far away and weather fronts are constantly moving from there to this place.

But the area is perfect for hiking and relaxing camping holidays. In total, the Lysefjord is approximately 40 kilometres long, at the deepest point it is up to 500 metres deep. Its name, "light fjord", is not due to the sometimes bright blue water, through which even the bottom two metres away can be clearly seen. but rather the shiny, chafed rocky walls.

At the end of the last corner of the fjord, Lysebotn Camping is also equipped for guests who come in by ferry. A huge meadow lies here during the day in the bright sun when it is not raining. And "Olavspub" has burgers, beer and spaghetti, albeit at typical Norwegian prices, which remind you more of a five-star restaurant than a camping kiosk.

Since 2018, the region has been certified with the sustainable destination seal of approval, which obliges all tourism providers here to keep negative environmental impacts from tourism to a minimum. Showers are heated with solar energy and the hiking trails around the fjord are natural. Everybody here strives to protect the history, character and nature of Lysefjord from mass tourism.

But for mass tourism the fjord circuit along the shore line is nothing either. While tens of thousands of people are drawn to the two highlights each year, only a few hikers get lost on the strenuous and extremely lonely trail from the turn-off before Preikestolen to Lysebotn. On the north side, you walk at times on a steep slope sloping down to the water on narrow crevices with steel ropes as a means of support, have to climb over large granite boulders, wade hip-high through rivers or shimmy down rocks.

An adventure. There is nothing to do on the way, neither shopping nor eating out. Everything that is needed has to be carried over the approximately 42-kilometre route. Only at the back of Lysebotn is there a shop again - if you want to walk back on the other side of the fjord, you can stock up.

But that is not necessary. The ferry that goes to Songesand or Forsand comes regularly. The ships are passing the hydroelectric power stations at Flørli and Lysebotn - if you want, you can climb the legendary 4444 wooden steps from the landing stage in Flørli and look down from the top.

This takes two hours and takes you from sea level to 740 metres above sea level - accompanied by the clacking and squeaking of the longest wooden staircase in the world.

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