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The great pilgrimage: Green grass, gray rocks and Malloquin roast

The great pilgrimage: Green grass, gray rocks and Malloquin roast

May 2022 · 6 min read · Balearic Islands

Olive groves, hidden gorges, panoramic views and the most beautiful mountain villages of the island: a charming long-distance hiking trail leads away from mass tourism across Mallorca's wild Tramuntana mountains. We want to hike the Tramuntana mountains complete - a hard way, dry and beautiful. Today we have to hike to Lluc.

The way through the mountains
The way through the mountains
The way through the mountains

In Spring, before the sun really burns over Mallorca is the best time to discover the island, which is known for beaches, discos and alcohol abuse. The best way to do that is with hiking boots firmly laced. Follow me all the way to the other side of a well known and complete unknown isle. (Please read chapter one here, chapter two here, three here and four here

The man how looks from above
The man how looks from above
The man how looks from above

Yesterday we passed the Cüber reservoir, the wet heart of the island of Mallorca. The evening passed caring for tired bones, the morning now sees us again cheerful and rested, eager to tackle the next stage.

Up, up, up
Up, up, up
Up, up, up

Via Massanella, located 1,365 meters above sea level, we head to the monastery of Lluc, supposedly one of the most beautiful places on the island in the Mediterranean, full of history and full of stories of miracles, saints and deep faith.

Last view to the sea
Last view to the sea
Last view to the sea

Six hours of walking are ahead of us, supposedly climbing only 650 meters up and then 900 meters down. But we already know that these statements of our guide are always meant more as consolation and encouragement than to tell us something of reality.

Under the all-knowing eye

At the beginning we go again to the reservoir that looks into the sky like a green eye at a height of 750 meters. Above it sits the all-knowing radar eye of NATO, a metal sphere from which one feels involuntarily observed at every step. The path leads along a water channel and then through a typical dark holm oakıı forest to the source "Font des Prat".

High noon
High noon
High noon

After about an hour of walking, you reach the wooded saddle point Coll des Coloms. Here you walk on a weathered stone pavement path. An ideal ground to get sprains of all kinds. All this here are former charcoal burners' paths, whose former users first made Mallorca the island it is today.

Pale hills
Pale hills
Pale hills

Before they came, everything here was full of forests. From it the charcoal burners made charcoal, because Mallorca has no real coal. But they must heat their homes in the past like we have to do! So the forests disappeared, leaving the highlands as they are today.

The goats are always beside
The goats are always beside
The goats are always beside

Bare and wide, with green grass and gray rocks. Then we climb steeply to the foot of Puig de Massıuıellu (1,365 ın). From here, our hiking trail GR 221 leads straight up through the valley basin to the top of the pass Coll des Prat.

Nearer my god to you
Nearer my god to you
Nearer my god to you

On zigzag switchbacks

Only shortly before reaching the pass follow some zigzag switchbacks. To reach the summit, we must hike around the steep west wall uııd over the Coll des Prat (1,200 m). Finally, however, we stand on the second highest mountain on the island and can look far across the plain, the coves to the north and the Puig Major can be let roam. A sharp wind blows up here and because of the zigzag turns on the way we puff heavily. The view back down the Orangental of Sóller is stunning.

Pink signs
Pink signs
Pink signs 

Up in the high valley, the Gorg Blau reservoir glistens in the sun. It smells of sage and herbs. Imposingly, Mallorca's highest mountain, the 1436-meter Puig Major, towers over the landscape.

It’s green and it’s grey like the poet Justin Sullivan sings
It’s green and it’s grey like the poet Justin Sullivan sings
It's green and it's grey like the poet Justin Sullivan sings

The monastery of Lluc down in the valley basin can be seen from afar. But it's still quite a way to get there, now always down the mountain. This stresses the knees and calves, but the birdsong all around is soothing.

Old mountain paths

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Suddenly, there's a loud knocking and hammering. A man is re-building a dry-stone wall that has been destroyed by winter erosion. In the 1980s, the dry stone masons' guild was already threatened with extinction, he says. But this would also have endangered the preservation of the old mountain paths. Even if neither signposts nor any other tourist information advertise these paths, it would have been a pity. They are gems, real gems.

Another hill, another summit
Another hill, another summit
Another hill, another summit

Because up here, nothing but pure nature awaits the hiker. Pure nature and absolutely emptiness. Slowly and without puffing, we take the normal route down to the Coll de Sa Línia pass at an altitude of 800 meters, and from there we continue to the Comafreda farm. The path drags, but the worst is over. Then the monastery of Lluc actually appears in front of us, a magic stone castle, overgrown with ancient trees and excellently maintained.

View to the monastery
View to the monastery
View to the monastery

This great pilgrimage center has a famous building, a healing spring with supposed magical power, an old church and a museum of sacred art. The choir of the monastery, the Blavets, is also famous, charming young singers with true angelic voices.

Important place of pilgrimage

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The most important place of pilgrimage in Mallorca was founded in the 13th century, a huge cross is enthroned on a rock next to the building. Today you can spend the night in the former monk cells, there is a large restaurant with traditional Malloquin roast and afterwards even a large bottle of free liqueur from own production.

Gimme 5!!!!
Gimme 5!!!!
Gimme 5!!!!

As soon as the day tourists disappear, it becomes wonderfully quiet. A bird sings from a tree in the evening, the wind rustles and the long, dark corridors in front of the pretty rooms are so quiet that you can hear the clink of the last glasses from the restaurant.

Thank you for reading and if you like my work please follow me          on HiveTravelfeed or Steem or visit my homepage koenau.de

A few more pictures for you:

The cross above the monasterie
The cross above the monasterie
The cross above the monasterie
The monks are up to date
The monks are up to date
The monks are up to date
Deep in the woods
Deep in the woods
Deep in the woods
Dark corridors of the monasterie
Dark corridors of the monasterie
Dark corridors of the monasterie
Start the day
Start the day
Start the day
Another cross in the outback
Another cross in the outback
Another cross in the outback
The night is quiet in lluc
The night is quiet in lluc
The night is quiet in lluc
Grey stones on the way
Grey stones on the way
Grey stones on the way
On the target
On the target
On the target
The cells of the monks, where we sleep tonight
The cells of the monks, where we sleep tonight
The cells of the monks, where we sleep tonight

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