Wet heart of Herzegowina: Swimming in waterfalls

It is not far from the seashore to here, but still a journey to completely different land when you try to go to the wet heart of Herzegowina for swimming in the damous Kravica waterfalls. Croatia is actually almost all coast, rocks, houses clinging to mountains. Bosnia and Herzegovina, on the other hand, welcomes its guests with heavy rains.

Cell phones no longer work here, because this is no longer the EU. There is no euro, but there is an ominous "marka," named after the former German deutschmark and still worth just as much today: half a euro. They won't let them join the common currency. Then the Bosnians just go along with it.

Highlight of Herzegovina

The first major sight in this predominantly Muslim country, which like its neighbors emerged from the former Yugoslavia, is the Kravica waterfalls [ˈkravit͡sa] near the village of Studenci, which belongs to the municipality of Ljubuški. Not far from this municipality with a few hundred inhabitants, a well-maintained road leads to one of the highlights of Herzegovina: here the Trebižat River plunges between 26 and 28 meters down a 120-meter-wide slope into a large basin surrounded by restaurants, beaches, deck chairs and quite a bit of nature.

Since a lot of fertile mud remains around the waterfalls, numerous plant species that make up the regional vegetation can thrive particularly well. In the past, millers used the "Kravices" to power their water mills. But today it is mainly bathers who cool off at the waterfalls and go to swim in the wet heart of Herzegowina, the Kravica waterfalls

Idyll of nature

Yes, really, one is really allowed to go into the water here, in the middle of the nature reserve. What would be unthinkable in Germany attracts thousands of locals and tourists every day to this little corner, whose only other attraction is tours in an open Humvee.

On good days, you are quite alone here, in the region of Herzegovina, which provides at least part of the country's name.But the large parking lot in front of the entrance shows that there must also be days when whole busloads of curious people are on their wy to be dumped in the idyll of nature.

Today is a good and empty day to relax and swim. Already from the road you can see the waterfalls in an impressive natural panorama. It even looks tropical as the water makes its way through the dense and vast forests. Especially in summer, visitors will be impressed by a bright green in various shades. Green it shimmers, turquoise and blue.

 Small brother of the Neretva

The various waterfalls are between 26 and 28 meters high, coming down a semicircle 120 meters wide. At the bottom they form a small lake before the water flows on. It comes from the small river Trebižat. This rises further north in Herzegovina and, together with its much larger brother the Neretva, flows through Bosnia via Croatia until it finally flows into the Adriatic Sea.

The lake is basically just a break table for the water, which is always on the move. Therefore, it is not surprising that it is icy cold. Even at the height of summer, the water temperature here rarely rises above 15 degrees. However, since the air temperature in this part of the country is usually very pleasant in summer - or even very hot - these waterfalls and the small lake they feed are extremely popular with bathers.

Because of conservation regulations, the dining establishments are restrained and integrated into the landscape. There is coffee, beer, coke or a snack, which is quite excellent and - this is Bosnia - very, very cheap. If you want more, go to the restaurant, which has beautiful tables from which you can look out over the lake.

 Incredible experience

There is an entrance fee to visit the Kravice waterfall, but Bosnian modest. In exchange, there is the incredible experience of standing in the spray right at the edge of the water near the Kravica waterfall and feeling the breathtaking power of the water. The noise here is deafening, the mist of the waterfall creates a cool and refreshing atmosphere, and the smell of the wet rocks is invigorating. The sound of the waterfall is so loud that it drowns out all other sounds, and the mist creates a sense of seclusion. It's a perfect place to relax and get away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life.

Fortunately, the sun is shining, so we go in. The lake is shallow, surrounded by lush vegetation, and the chirping of birds in the trees can be heard despite the noise. You can swim everywhere, only the rock walls themselves are closed off to prevent accidents. Few dare to just enter the water today, even fewer actually swim to the other end. Mostly it's just to take a quick photo for Instagram. And quickly out again.

Gentle current

What they miss! The current is gentle, a little stronger in the main pool at the foot of the waterfall, hardly noticeable in the middle of the lake. You have to be careful when walking down, because the footbridges are slippery. All in all, swimming in the Kravice waterfall is a unique experience, especially because not everyone dares to go in.

Afterwards, a short walk around the lake gets the circulation going again. It is not far, it takes no more than 10 minutes to walk around. Officially, there are no camping facilities at the waterfalls, if you brave enoght, you'll find a way and a place. But otherwise you have to switch to hotels or guesthouses in the area or book in time the apartment Kravica, which is just a few steps away and is run by a wonderfully warm-hearted woman, clean, nice and helpful.

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