📷 Trip to the North

It is tales that are quickly spun, deeds are sooner said than done.

Today I want to tell you about one interesting route. If you happen to be in the capital of Russia, and you have a question where you can go to travel, then you can take my post as a hint for further action.
Of course, you can move from Moscow in any direction. And the capital itself can hold your attention for a long time. I confidently declare where you would go, you will see a lot of new and interesting. However, it is difficult to embrace the unlimited, so let's stop today in the northern direction. To repeat our route, you need a reliable car and some money :-)

I want to build this post in the form of a short guide.
So, let's begin!

The mileage is about ~ 3500-4000 km.
Vehicle - Skoda Octavia Scout 4VD.
Route: Номе - Yaroslavl (transit) - Vologda - Kirillov - Nyandoma - Kargopol - Kenozero - Plesetsk (transit) - Onega - Arkhangelsk - Solovki (avia) - home :-)
There were great concerns about the state of the route Moscow-Arkhangelsk (Holmogory). But it proved in vain - covering road "Holmogory" almost perfectly (of course, by Russian standards).
The purpose of the trip: to see the north of Russia, the wooden architecture of the Arkhangelsk region (preserved in some places in its original form)

Day one.

We left early in the morning. Listening to the radio performances we passed the city of Yaroslavl, and by evening we were in Vologda. There are two ancient Russian cities of Smolensk and Vologda. What do they have in common (except for the stone kremlin)? Past these cities you always pass by. This time we put the question bluntly - Vologda city must be seen!

Subjective sensations and observations: the purity of the streets (of course, according to Russian concepts) and a large number... of beautiful girls!

According to the historical heritage, I estimate the cities by two criteria. It is the entertainment and breathing of history. If about entertainment everything is clear without words, then it is difficult to explain about the second, here it is necessary to feel.
On the first point is to see the Kremlin with the bell tower and the massive St. Sophia Cathedral, the merchant architecture of the 18-19th centuries and the river. Sukhona. Spectacular views of the city from the bell tower.
I did not feel the breathing of history.
Food:
Cafe "Парижанка" (Parisian women) in the center. Works around the clock. Check is above average. The kitchen is not bad.
Overnight:
We stopped at the cozy parking lot of the "Elky-Palki" restaurant and slept in the car on the deployed seats.

Day two.

The next item in the navigator was Kirillov. Between the city of Vologda and the city of Kirillov we visited the Museum of Wooden Architecture.
Well-organized exposition. It seems the museum apparently has good money. Friendly staff of the museum.
Minus is an unsuccessfully chosen place for the museum.

By lunchtime we were at the walls of the Cyril-Belozersky Monastery.

Entertainment at 10 points!
I sensed the breathing of history. Tourists are going straight on the stones from the tombs. I will not describe the monastery, the Internet is full of information. To inspect the monastery, it makes sense to spend the whole day.

Spectacular views: from the bell tower, the panorama of the walls of the monastery from the water.
Very expensive entrance tickets!
Food:
Dined at the cafe-dining-restaurant "Пир горой" (mountain food). Prices are below average, the quality of the kitchen is also below average.

After lunch we visited the Ferapontov Monastery. A unique place. Frescoes with the author's stamp of Dionysius from 1502 fascinate. Everything in the museum is kept at a high level, starting from slippers and ending with modern electronics. The entertainment and breathing of history are just off scale. Highly recommend. There's a Russian spirit!

The next goal is Kargopol.

Followed by a jerk on the M-6 highway through the town of Velsk with a turn to the settlement of Nyandoma. The section of the route between M-6 and Nyandoma frightened the unexpected pit and completely lack of civilization. However, it is necessary to recognize the condition of the pavement satisfactory.
Fatigue began to take points - we decided to get to Nyandoma and there to spend the night. This islet of civilization was already reached at the limit of our strength.

Overnight in the settlement of Nyandoma remained a notch in memory. Some wise guy wrote on an electrical substation - "There is no future".
Food:
Smoked sausage, gherkins, sprats and 300 grams of vodka.
Overnight:
Sleep in the car on the decomposed seats

The third day.

The goal is a city with a beautiful name Kargopol.

What to see?
• The Onega River
• Ensemble of Cathedral Square
• Cathedral of the Nativity of Christ. Years of construction 1552 - 1562 (one of the oldest stone churches of the North of Russia). The iconostasis with an unusual northern colorist is well preserved in the Temple. The same collected chic "heaven" from wooden churches. Perhaps, this object should be given the main attention.
• Church of the Nativity of the Virgin (started to be built in 1678)

It's hard and sad to write about entertainment and history. The city is abandoned and vegetates in lack of money.

Food:
Dined at the cafe-restaurant of the hotel "Kargopol". Check above average. I liked the fish: cod and potatoes and fried halibut.

Further goals are the wooden architecture of the Russian North near Kargopol.

The nearest attraction is a few kilometers from the town in the village of Saunino. Spectacular temple with a bell tower.

And finally, the main trump card is a magnificent ensemble in the Lyadiny village (Лядины). As far as I know this is the last surviving to our time complex of three wooden churches (a winter temple, a summer temple and a bell tower). This is all that we have left from numerous ensembles of russian north.

Photographing inside is prohibited. The complex is in excellent condition. You can see the interiors of the summer temple. Be sure to pay attention to the painting of the ceiling boards on the porch of the temple. It's a 'blue sky' with big yellow stars. On the door of the temple usually hangs a note with the caretaker's phones. So it is accepted in the Vologda and Arkhangelsk regions.
I felt an inexpressible feeling when I touched the thick carved pillars-columns of the Intercession-Vlasyevskaya church.
Entertainment and breathing history by 10 points!

From the city of Kargopol to the city of Plesetsk appeared a magnificent highway (by universal standards). Sunny weather, together with the survey of huge northern huts, wooden temples and landscapes of the Onega River, make the trip to Plesetsk completely "non-stressful".
What to see along the way?
Very beautiful murals of roof filings on the gables of the northern huts.

After the city of Plesetsk, we turned to Onega-city. The dirt road to Onega made an indelible impression. Everything was here! Wooden bridges with broken boards of decking, sharp turns, rises and descents, unexpected pits. I recommend this road to those drivers who like a little hotter.

In the form of a prize for these difficulties you will have to wait for the chic landscapes of the north with magnificent views of the Onega River and almost abandoned villages. The whole northern part of the day was halfway through the second sun. June is the time of the white nights!

Food:
Remains of smoked sausage, gherkins, canned cod liver and 400 grams of vodka.
Overnight:
Sleep on the bank of the river Onega with a view of the White Sea.

To be continued

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