Heeeello you sexy readers! How are you? Check my adventures in Chiloé island in Chile - this is the Final Part.
Hello there readers! This is Mr.P with yet another fun, crazy and adventurous episode of our journey through Chiloé island in Chile. Let's hit the road again and departure further north to Ancud, the last major city in Chiloé. Unfortunately this is the last episode of the Chiloé series. But, don't be sad just yet! This is just a chapter of a much longer and insane trip.
The Chiloé hitchhiking adventure started on a post released many moons ago. Keep in mind that not reading the previous posts doesn't influence the understanding of this story, however, it does contain explanations about the island of Chiloé and how to get there.
If you'd like to see how I got to Chiloé, check out below.
If you'd like to read the previous parts of this hitchhiking adventure, below are the links.
In part one you read about my arrival in Chiloé and how my friends and I managed to get to Castro, the capital. After sleeping by the road and eating blackberries like a maniac I had to say goodbye to Louis and Juliet. In part II I got on the road again, this time alone, to reach a city called Dalcahue, where I slept inside a stall. Part IIII brought us to an island hopping trip to Quinchao where I visited some historic Churches and feared for my life when the Tsunami siren turned on. Enjoy the Final Part.
Click any of the images to enlarge!.
Obs.: This story is part of a bigger journey that I plan to tell you one day. Since it would be incredibly long I've decided to release parts of it, featuring the most crazy bits. It'll not follow an order of events, but I'll put it in a way that you can read as parts of a book. Hope you enjoy.
This happened when I was hitchhiking Argentina and Chile in summer 2017. Carrying only the essentials and little money for the journey. I had left Buenos Aires in early January with the main goal to reach Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the Americas. Plan was plain an simple: Work if needed, camp, hitchhike all the way, have loads of fun and let my desire guide the way.
February 18th, 2017. After sleeping another night on my stall I was already friends with the handicrafters. They wanted to pay me for guarding the other stalls after the first night Police scene. I may be dumb, but I refused to set a price for that task, afterall they were working as hard as me to live life. That day I wrote on my diary.
Last night it was quiet at the handicrafts fair, I met the organizer, his name is Paco, cool dude. I was just finishing packing my stuff a few minutes ago when this little boy befriended me. He is nuts about fishing and wanted to show me the fish at the docks, sadly I've gotta leave.
The little boy must've been 6 or 7. I envied his simple, yet free lifestyle; not sure if he was studying or not, but he seemed to live life as freely as possible - fishing, playing with dogs, wandering. He wore old clothes and had long, almost rastafari like, hair. Untill this day I don't know who his parents are, but he was always with the handicrafters and became my little buddy.
- Let's go fishing! - the boy said.
- I can't buddy, I have to travel... - I said.
- I like fishing, do you like fishing? - He asked.
- Of course I do! - I said.
I continued packing my stuff, it was getting late at morning and I had to hitchhike up north, I had no idea how much time it would take, but judging from the trip from Castro I assumed at least 3-4 hours of waiting time. In front of the stall across the street there was a house with a wire fence, inside there was an apple tree loaded up with green apples (manzanas in spanish).
- Hey! Help me take some manzanas. - The boy said.
He couldn't reach the apples so he was trying to climb the fence. I crossed the street to help him.
- Heeeeeeeeeey, what are you doing? You don't need to do that! Just ask! - A mad old man shouted from inside.
I was immediately so sorry for that, the old man was right on shouting at us, all I wanted to do was to help the poor boy reach the manzanas, and now the fault was mine?
- Sorry sir! I was just helping the boy... - I said.
The man shouted a little more while taking a bunch of apples from inside the fence, which he gave to us. Not bad, to be honest. Those green apples with a little bit of salt are great!
Hitchhiking out of Dalcahue was humongously difficult, despite the amount of cars passing by. I tried all the tactics without success. Nothing. Being unable to move out of that city, below the drizzle, was actually getting more frustrating as time passed. I gathered all the coins I had laying on my pockets and took the local bus, it was quite cheap and would leave me right on the main road. There it should be easier, I thought. Poor me.
The main road was in fact a fast speed two lane freeway. If you ever tried hitchhiking you may have noticed that this is the worst nightmare fora traveller, as the cars don't have time to notice you and decide if they will stop or not. Plus it can be dangerous for them to hit the brakes on those conditions. Your best bet is to find a gas station where you can talk directly to the drivers. That's what I did... without success. However, my biggest gratitude to the gas station employee, Manoel, who paid me a hot dog - I won't be able to pay you back, my friend; but I'll pay it to someone in need, everyday in my life.
Tired, wet and not hungry anymore, I swallow my hitchhiker pride and decided to use my last bucks on a bus to Ancud. I've had enough of Chiloé at that point and I was a little stressed of being wet and without a shower for so many days, I wanted to see something different, to move.
Days were gray, drizzly, equipment was humid, clothes were humid and Ancud was a big city. What a disastrous combo of misfortunes. The bus left me on the city center, so as soon as I got there it was already late afternoon, I was absolutely worried about where I'd sleep - big cities and low budget don't mix! I wandered the coastal street, I thought about sleeping on the bus station, it all seemed unsafe. This is a part of the trip where I've taken the least amount of pictures, unfortunately. I was just not happy with all that wetness.
Ancud, Chiloé - Chile.
Ancud, Chiloé - Chile. The rainiest city ever.
These are 3 different birds, not 3 pictures on top of each other.
Fire in the hole!!!!!
When you are hitchhiking without money, finding a place to sleep can be quite tricky, it needs to be hidden and the further away from the city as possible. There are always forests or farms on a city's outskits, or maybe a beach. You gotta use your creativity and think wisely, if it feels unsafe, just don't do it.
My exploration led me to the old Fort San Antonio, also known as Batería de San Antonio. Visiting Forts is always a cool idea, especially when it's so old like this one. It didn't have much stuff to see, but at least I could take some fun photos to feel a little better about my wet misery.
Fort San Antonio in Ancud, Chiloé - Chile.
Fort San Antonio in Ancud, Chiloé - Chile.
Fiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiire in the hooooooole!!!!!!!!!
Observing the coastal line I spotted a beach with some high banks, possibly a good location to sleep, I just needed to find the way. More walking, more rain. When you are determined to keep on going and remain focused, life can present you with some magestic moments, doesn't matter how miserable you are feeling. It must be something about energy or destiny, I'll never know. However, at that moment I stopped at a house to ask for directions.
- Hey brother, hello! Just need some directions... - I said. The guy seemed younger than me and was chilling outside of his house, smoking a rolled cigar.
- I'm looking for the beach, do you know if it's safe to sleep there? - I asked.
- Ah you just keep on following this street and you'll be there. It should be safe... - He said.
I thanked him and was preparing to continue when I heard him again.
- Where are you from by the way? - He asked.
- Brazil.. - I said.
- That's cool, and you are travelling like that?!? - He asked.
- Yeah... no money almost... - I said.
- Dude, come inside... you can have a hot coffee or something, maybe you can put your tent on the garden, I don't care. - He said.
As simple as that, I met Mathias, a friend whom I speak to this day, things life give you when you are humble and honest. He was a travel passionate himself which allowed long talkings and coffee runs, we also shared rolled cigar until we could no longer even look at it. I was terrible at rolling them, but for Mathias it seemed like a terapy.
- You put the tobacco here, not too much, nor too little. Then you put the tip, this way it's easier to roll...you see.. - He said.
What a cool dude. We chatted until late at night about various sujects - from government to marea roja. About travel, study, biology too. More tobacco, more coffee, until it was sleep time. That night I slept in my wet tent inside the safety of Mathias' yard. The other day I needed to get out of there.
February 19th, 2017. Rain, what once was a drizze, now had became a big shower. I woke up before Mathias, so I made sure to go buy some bread for us, it was the minimum I could do to be thankful for his help. Time passed, we smoked more tobacco and drank more coffee, more chatting. The rain was simply not going to stop.
- Mathias, amigo... I'm afraid I'll have to go on the rain. It's not very good for hitchhiking, but I have no option. - I said.
- Bueno, as you wish my friend. All I can say is good luck on your journey. Take care hermano. - He said.
I dressed my backpacks and rain gear and faced the rain. I knew it would be cold and very wet, turning my chances to find a ride into zero, specially after last day's fiasco. I walked 15 km to the city northboud exit. Fithteen long wet and miserable kilometers, just to find out four hitchhikers waiting beautfuly in line for a ride on the same spot. F***.
- For how long have you been waiting, hermano? - I asked one of the dudes.
- A couple hours! - He said.
F***, I was in troubble. Accepting my defeat I thought that the best option would be to simply walk along the road until I felt tired enough. What else could I do?
I looked back, a pickup truck stopped for the first hitchhiker, they were two. They didn't enter, so the truck moved to the second hitchhiker. He didn't enter either. The truck continue and passed by the third without stopping, I was the next.
- Well, fuck it. I'm gonna try too. - I thought. The pickup stopped and rolled down the window.
- Are you solo? - The man asked.
- Yeah! - I said.
- Hop in brother! - He said.
What the heck? One minute waiting, a long line of hitchhikers, and I got the ride? What are the chances?!?
- They are all together, I don't pick more than one, the other day the bastards stole stuff from the rear seat. - He said.
Lucky, lucky day! Sergio was the coolest dude to give me a ride, just because he thought I was friendly and because I was alone. How can hitchhikers be so dumb to steal stuff from someone who is helping them? That's is beyond my comprehenssion.
He drove me to the ferry ramp that would take me out of Chiloé, he also pointed which ferries are free to cross without a car. That day my adventures in Chiloé ended, I'm not sure if it's for ever, but I'm sure it is the last time I'll hitchhike in such a wet place. At least it gave me a lot of stories to tell, and many memories of beautiful acts of compassion from people I'll possibly never see again, but will be always on my heart.
Crossing the ferry didn't take 10 hours, like it took when I got to Chiloé; the north of Chiloé connects to the main land through a narrow channel and the trip only takes 20 minutes. Also, there are ferries 24 hours a day, a cool boat dance from south to north and vice-versa.
I really love boats.
These are free to cross on foot.
On the other side I was completely wet and cold, night was comming and I had to find a place to sleep again. Here we go again on the difficult task of figuring out life. Fortunately, I saw a bunch of backpackers in the same situation asking the ferry crew for some help. The ferry crew seeing our unpleasant situation offered the waiting room, it was just a big room with benches and bathrooms inside, it was also full of water somehow, which we managed to clean. United backpackers can achieve a lot!
In a few minutes we cleaned the whole place and it became our free hostel while the rain got even more stronger outside. What a fun night that was, a bunch of backpackers from all over the place sleeping together, lot's of laught and happiness that day, even though we were all stinky and wet.
My last night near Chiloé island.
Cozy little bed.
This post ends our adventure in Chiloé, a place that I want go back one day with a little more money to be able to enjoy all the amazing food at the Chilota festivals, as it didn't happen this time. If you like culturally rich places with a lot of history, peculiar lifestyle and architeture, add Chiloé to your list. Just keep in mind that it rains 300 days a year, be warned.
If you think the Travel Stories posts are over, don't be silly! Haha. This was just a small chapter of a much longer and insane trip that I'll tell you as detailed and entertaining as possible.
Would you like me to keep on bringing these long stories? Leave a comment down below, I love talking to you.
If you liked this post, please, consider leaving your upvote for a hot coffee.
~Love ya all,
Disclaimer: The author of this post is a convict broke backpacker, who has travelled more than 10.000 km hitchhiking. Following him may cause severe problems of wanderlust and inquietud. You've been warned.