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Travel Story: Ushuaia | Tierra del Fuego | Lapatia National Park

Travel Story: Ushuaia | Tierra del Fuego | Lapatia National Park

April 2020 · 6 min read · Ushuaia

Boom-shaka-laka Quarantiners! Let's continue our Patagonian story to distract from the pandemics.


It's been several days that I don't post any of the crazy travel stories, mostly because I was waiting for Travel Feed to settle its course, and also because I've kinda lost motivation.

Being locked at home due to the Covid-19 hasn't been inspiring for someone that loves the outdoors and mountain-biking, but I must admit it gives us plenty of time to read, write and plan for the future.

On this post I'll take you back to Ushuaia, on the island of Tierra del Fuego in Argentina. This episode is a follow up of my previous post and we'll sneak inside the Lapatia National Park and have tons of fun. I hope you enjoy!


The collection of posts about Patagonia can be read without any connection to each other, however, if you wish to read the full story in sequence and with more details stay tuned to my blog for when I announce the book!


Lapatia National Park, Argentina
Lapatia National Park, Argentina


This happened when I was hitchhiking Argentina and Chile in summer 2017. Carrying only the essentials and little money for the journey. I had left Buenos Aires in early January with the main goal to reach Ushuaia, the southernmost city in the americas. Plan was plain an simple: Work if needed, camp, hitchhike all the way, have loads of fun and let my desire guide the way.

January 9th, 2017. A day of pure walking, dumbness and a bit of trespassing, I won’t deny. We wanted to save money by camping that night on the Lapatia National Park, a vast preservation zone that allows people to wild camp just outside of Ushuaia. As any other barely planned adventure we had no clue how we’d get there, we simply walked away into the unknown and soon would discover, for our desperation, that it would take forever to get there, especially when you are carrying 25 kilos of equipment and food on your back.

Endless Walk
Endless Walk


After walking some 15 kilometers below a scorching sun on a curvy dusty road amid dryish long pointy trees, we topped the insanity by discovering that there was an entry fee that we couldn’t afford at that moment. Going back wasn’t an option at that point and we tried to convince the guards to let us in; a second option would be to legally enter after a certain time when there wouldn’t be any fee applicable; then we had the third and most absurd option, which was to back off a bit on the road and sneak into the forest and up the mountain to make our way past the entry. For the sake of adventure we chose the late.

― Look, we go there. We remain silent. They don't see us… ― Vadim said in heavy Russian accent.
― Let’s go! ― I followed.

As if the idea wasn’t crazy enough, I was making it crazier by blindly following a comrade Russian, and you know… Russians are famous for the ‘smart’ ideas. So we sneaked into the dark, humid forest. Below the hill was the ranger’s wooden cabin which we kept an eye on in case someone appeared, it was far away but a window overlooking the forest could be used to maybe spot us. Small branches cracked below our feet.

― Shhhhh, be careful! ― I whispered.

Vadim took the lead and kept on going up and over some precarious wire fences, it was hard to climb due to the humid terrain and the weight on our backpacks. Suddenly a light turned on inside the wooden cabin.

― Stop! Wait... ― I said from the back.

We hid a bit to see what was going on, ‘till the light turned off again.

― Let’s go! ― Vadim said.

We kept on going up and further inside the park in a demanding walk until the wooden cabin could no longer be seen, neither from the forest, nor from the road down below. That’s when we descended and started walking normally on the tracks of a steam train that carries tourists inside the park. Until this day I don’t agree with the trespassing situation, we could’ve waited to legally enter without paying, but adrenaline is one hell of a drug and in the end we never had bad intentions either, we just wanted to have some fun.

Tracks
Tracks


The park is of outstanding beauty with its freezing rivers and snowy peaks, several trails allow visitors to explore different fjords and glaciers. There were also several places to wild camp, but the severe cold penetrates the valley and one need to be prepared to sleep in those condition. Warm sleeping bag, clothes and hot meals are a must, also there's no structure and fires are not allowed.

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Even though I was prepared, in the end the whole plan failed when the weather started to really chill and Vadim gave up on the idea of camping that night.

― We can’t camp… it’s too cold… my sleeping bag can’t handle it… - He said.
― But dude! You are supposed to be Russian, you guys don’t feel cold! ― I jokingly said.
― I know… but we can go back and cook… ― he proposed.

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I had hooked my friend to the best of the simplest Brazilian culinary and such an offer couldn’t be denied I must say, even though I felt a bit frustrated I wouldn’t be able to camp that night. Sometimes a solo traveler has to give up on some things in detriment of other also cool ideas. We quickly found a ride onto the back of a pick-up truck and in a few minutes found ourselves back to the hostel for another run of real food.

In whatever way, the cozy days of hostel were about to end as our funds disappeared ferociously from our wallets, the next day we agreed to leave and go back to the simpler life on the road, along with the classic pasta and tuna fish.

On the next episode we'll get stuck at the border between Argentina and Chile, when heavy winds caused a shutdown of the ferry services, stay tunned.


Did you like reading this story? If I wrote a book, with even more details of the adventure, would you read it? Drop your answer on the comments down below!

If you liked this post, please, consider leaving your upvote for a hot coffee.

~Love ya all


Disclaimer: The author of this post is a convict broke backpacker, who has travelled more than 10.000 km hitchhiking and more than 3.000 km cycling. Following him may cause severe problems of wanderlust and inquietud. You've been warned.

Travel Resources for your trip to Argentina

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Day Trips & Tours: We recommend GetYourGuide for a variety of well-organized and enjoyable activities.

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