There was one more thing that happened on my way to Rachiv. It was just a long straight road, 10 miles along the valley bottom towards the town where I was going to take a weeks rest. Ten miles more and I could stop walking. I couldn’t wait, I felt very ready for a rest. My feet were hurting that m
The sky began to glow pink as I packed away, so happy to be here experiencing this, the beauty of the day beginning, the tinges of light turning the mountain yellow brown with colour. I walked towards the mountain peak, turning to blow a kiss and say thank you to the land that held me, one of my mo
I’ve realised something about myself – it’s always been there, in the times when I’m emotional or drunk, but in the long days of walking when I’m tired and hungry I can see that it comes very much to the fore.
Sometimes I can be a bit…how can I put this…immediate. That’s the way it feels.
I’ve been walking for six weeks and I’ve covered almost 400 miles so I thought it was time to do a summary post of the shape of my journey across Ukraine, what it’s been like for me here and how I’m trying to approach this walk.
It’s hard to say exactly how far I’ve walked, the above estimate is a
I met a soldier on the road; I looked up and there he was, a tall man in dusty camouflage clothing and a peaked cap standing in the centre of the stony road staring at me quizzically. We talked a little, as much as I was able, as we walked along together.
He told me he was fighting in the east, was
It all feels hazy now, a few days down the line. So much of what I’ve done this week has been in mild dehydration under hot sun. Exhaustion plays with your memory, makes the brain blank out. I haven’t had a terrible time, just bad stomach that’s all, but my body needs all the nutrition it can get a
I am in a coffee shop in Kozyatyn town and it is tiny. One counter, one round table, one set of chairs at a window seat. Proudly established in 2017, proclaims the window decal. I come in because it’s familiar, I know how to deal with a coffee shop, how to order, what they offer. It seems to be the
It’s apple season in Ukraine. Apple and walnut and mushroom season. Trees hang branches over every garden fence, waiting for a hand to catch their mottled droplets. I pluck as I go, the ones that would fall to roadside space, and savour their sweet white crunch. Other people are collecting too, th
After leaving Marius I tried hitching for a bit but it was getting dark and I was tired, I walked a short way into the fields, put up my tent and slept. Next day found me worried, this was a pretty poor place really, all the traffic was heading to Warsaw, and I wanted to go onto the ring road. I w
The thing I always forget about hitching is how it feels to wait. I can tell you all about the wild rides, the interesting people, bad coffee in expensive petrol stations, the thousands of miles travelled for free, but the most important thing about hitchhiking is the pauses, the parts in between,
I'm Ursula and I'm walking across Europe.
That's my profile in a nutshell.
Yes, I'm really walking. A lot of people I meet along the road hear the word walking and think I mean hitchiking, they have to do a double take when I tell them nope, I'm walking. I really am walking thousan