TravelFeedTravelFeed Logo
The Railway Diaries | photo series

The Railway Diaries | photo series

May 2018 · 10 min read

The Railway Diaries


DSC_0417.jpg

leaving Warsaw East railway station

This is an English translation of my old post about my experience with Polish National Railways (PKP). It was inspired by similiar experiences of @hallmann, who wrote about it, but I believe our attitude towards PKP is slightly different.

DSC_0863.jpg

Gdynia says goodbye

I really like trains. I am far from being a railway fanatic who collects photographs of particular types and subtypes of electric locomotives used by PKP, but I like this form of transport. My relationship with the railways is a bit toxic - I love them, they hurt me. I betray them to travel by coach and I return sorry, they repel me again, but they have the irresistible charm that makes me use their services again anyway. Besides, who has no toxic relations with the Polish railways? I don't know when this terrible fascination began - has it been since reading 80 days around the world? Or maybe from a trip on Nałęczów Narrow-Gauge Railway in kindergarden? I know only that our Polish railway is one of the last bastions of Adventure, like the Amazon jungle or the once unexplored Siberia.

DSC_0425.jpg

it's Warsaw Downtown in the distance

I like to be on a journey, suspended between point A and point B. Neither here nor there. And on the train, unlike in a bus or a car, you can get up, see who is sitting a bit further, change the place if you don't like yours. I have driven in an empty or almost empty compartment several times. I sleep very well in such conditions. In buses I feel uncomfortable, forced to sit for several hours in one place. Also I like stations, although it is not easy to get an a) aesthetic and b) functional. One of the tragedies of contemporary Polish architecture is the trend of transforming railway stations into shopping malls (see Poznań). The space of the station is to serve travellers first of all, the creation of non-functional communication centres with tragic access to individual stations, the shortage of parking spaces and the advantage of the commercial function is pain in the ass. A praiseworthy example, although is the library on Rumia station.

DSC_0383.jpg


DSC_0550.jpg
Gdańsk Oliwa PKP station


Last week I went to Warsaw by train. My girlfriend advised me not to, and she was right. The train was leaving on Sunday at 7.30 am. I was on the platform on time, I bought the ticket in advance. Only the train was missing. I checked the platform on the departures board. Platform 1st, everything as it should be. I came back after five minutes to check again - the train managed to catch up 60 minutes of delay. I cursed silently, sat down and opened my laptop. After a while the delay was 80 minutes. The next day I was going to the seaside (in february) and forgot to take a my thermos. The world belongs to the brave! I have typed my address in route planner, checked the connections; I should be back on time. Meanwhile, the delay has increased to 90 minutes. I came to my room, took the thermos, got on the bus going to the station. As I was on my way, I smirked thinking that a delayed train would come later than the one which should have been leaving an hour after the 1st one. I was precisely on time at the station, so I ran to the right platform, got into an empty wagon, sat down comfortably and the train moved...

DSC_0160.NEF.jpg

He drove a few hundred meters and then started to reverse. What the hell? I thought. We finally stopped at the station, at the second platform. I entered the conductors' compartment and asked where the train was going because I didn't know if I was going in the right direction.

To Chełm – said the conductor – And where did you wanted to go?

To Warsaw – I replied.

Iii! Now I don't think there will be anything to go to Warsaw. You have to read what is written! Get off while we are on the station.

If not, we'll give you a fine. – said jokingly his colleague.

DSC_0413.jpg

This time I was lucky. They didn't transport me to Chełm, I didn't pay for my mistake. In the past, I got on the wrong train twice. The direction was the same, only the train was better, express going to Berlin. The first time I had to buy a new ticket for 60 zlotys (with a student discount). The second time I encountered more understanding conductor, who only laughed and collected a dozen or so zlotys of for changing the type of my ticket.

DSC_0431.jpg

Finally, I got to Warsaw by another train, which in contrast, arrived on time. Only the heating didn't work. I changed the railcar and slept in the warmth for the rest of the journey.


During my time of studying in Poznań, I only travelled home by train. One weekend I went to take the train about 6 in the morning. I was quite late at the train station. So I headed to the ticket machine, as the station was being rebuilt and I didn't want to waste time searching for a ticket office and standing in line. I typed in the name of the station I was on, then the destination and it showed me the connection... via Wrocław.
Something is wrong, I thought. The route is too long, the direction does not match. The ticket machine was stubborn and was still spitting out the route through Wrocław. I surrendered to the inevitable and walked to the platform.
In Wrocław I was punctual, the problem was that there was no such train to Lublin on any timetable or display, as appearing on the ticket. Only the Lady from Ticket Office could save me from this kind of trouble.

Oh! I don't know why it printed out the ticket this way – she said – This train was leaving Wrocław... but at 6! – she added. – I will change your ticket for the next train and refund you the money.

That much at least. I spent an hour at the railway station in Wroclaw, and then I went home from there. Route took ten hours, instead of the usual six.

DSC_0178.NEF.jpg


In November of 2017 I was with my girlfriend in Zwierzyniec. During summer there is a train connection from Lublin, but in the off-season are only the minibuses. We decided to take a railcar to Zamość and only from there take a bus to Zwierzyniec. When we were coming back, the train started with a little delay. Then it was only worse, 30 minutes, 45th ... It turned out that one of the train engines was not working. At each station, someone from the train crew ran out with a flashlight to check if it will fuck up completely, or not. The light in the whole train has even gone out once. We arrived in Lublin finally... with a delay of 120 minutes.

DSC_0426.jpg

Passengers are also an interesting topic. Four years ago I went to my first Woodstock Festival (now Pol'and'Rock festival) in my life. I knew about the existence of special Woodstock trains, but they started to run from Lublin a day later than I planned to depart. I had 13 hours and 2 changes to Kostrzyn. I found myself in a wagon with an exceptionally talkative girl, who for the purposes of the text will be called Jessica. The journey to Poznań was quite pleasant, even though Jessica did not close her mouth, but I was mainly nodding and it was OK. In Kutno some guy, in his 30's joined us (we'll call him Krzychu). He was going back to work in the UK after visiting his home country. As befits a respectable man of work, as soon as he took his place, he pulled out two beers, opened them one by one and joined the conversation. It would be all right if at some point Krzychu, playing with a lighter, did not start roasting Jessica's heel. We told him to get the fuck out from our compartment, to which the repentant Krzychu murmured that it was only a joke, sorry

I also came back from Woodstock by train, this time an old vehicle, with plastic seats and plywood panels. I slept through most of the way. Finally it became too hot to sleep, and I looked through the open window at the cities and towns I was passing. I remember especially a few people swimming in the river, in the afternoon sunshine. An idyllic summertime picture. And basically it's my best memory of the whole event. Despite two approaches, I did not like the Woodstock Festival.

DSC_0431.NEF.jpg

Once on the train, I got bamboozled on 10 zlotys. In Central Warsaw, the train to Poznań stops for 10-15 minutes. Then an go-ahead individual rushes through the carriages, announcing that he "sellscoldbeerTATRA-TYSKIE-PERŁA, coldbeeer....". Across me sat down, guy in his early thirties in a grey blouse, saying that "he must buy a ticket and there is a surcharge, and he does not have the change" and that if I would lend him a tenner he would give it back right away. And I got rid of the tenner for good. A few months later I was in Warsaw again on a train to Poznań, hearing "I sell beer...". After a while a guy, about thirty, sat opposite me in a blouse and started a monologue, from which one could catch first of all "I have to buy a ticket... a surcharge.. a ten złotys loan... I'll give it back right away". I looked into his eyes, saying:

Ready to Blog & Earn?

With TravelFeed, easily start your own travel blog and earn as you go. It's the smart platform for travelers who want to profit from their passion. Create a free account

– Haven't I seen you before? You got in the same place, saying the same thing.

The guest broke in half a word - eee - and then he got up and ran out of the compartment. I did not meet him anymore.

DSC_0382.jpg

I could continue this entry for a long time, recalling anecdotes about passengers, punctuality, train stations and other incidents. It is very likely that I will come back to the Railway Diaries again, having collected new experiences. I dream of an efficient railway in Poland, similar to the German or Swiss one. Will this ever happen? At some point probably. But when? I see some changes for the good, although there are just as many in setbacks and changes for worse. It is difficult for me to determine from an non-expert point of view in which direction this is going. The railways certainly have potential. I have a positive experience with the suburban and urban railways - Fast Urban Railway (SKM)in the Tri-City and Warsaw, or the Regional Transport (PR) which have their incidents but are an important link in transport, being an alternative to, among others, the subway. I dream of taking the train from my town to Lublin. It will probably never happen, although there is a narrow-gauge connection between Poniatowa and Nałęczów, and Nałęczów with Lublin. I am concerned about the closing down of stations and the degradation of old, often historic, stations where postmodern structures are emerging. I value trains and I cannot imagine travelling without them.

DSC_0680.NEF.jpg

Don't Forget: Get Travel Health Insurance!

To make your trip a worry-free experience, TravelFeed recommends SafetyWing Nomad Insurance. It provides comprehensive health coverage while you travel, so you can focus on exploring, not the unexpected. Get a quote here

DSC_0624.jpg

Hel, the northernmost railway tracks in Poland - on their end there is only sea ahead

Photos taken using Nikon D3100, 18-105 Nikkor f/3.5-5.6. Most of them during trip to Gdańsk with my girlfriend.


by @postcardsfromlbn

Travel Resources

Recommended by TravelFeed

Flights: We recommend checking Kiwi.com to find the best and cheapest flights .

Accomodation: Find great stays on Booking.com, Agoda and Hostelworld.

Travel Insurance: Medical emergencies abroad can be pricey, but travel health insurance is not. We always use SafetyWing for affordable and reliable coverage.

Transportation: Use 12go and Omio to find detailed bus and train schedules, making travel planning easier.

Car Rental: For hassle-free car hiring, DiscoverCars is our trusted choice with a wide selection of vehicles.

Internet: Got an eSIM compatible phone? Airalo is perfect for reliable internet access during your trip. Just install it before you go, and you're set!

Day Trips & Tours: We recommend GetYourGuide for a variety of well-organized and enjoyable activities.

Tickets: Save on entrance fees with Klook and Tiquets.

Travel Planner: Need a hand planning? Our free travel planner chatbot is your personal guide. Chat now.

Disclosure: Posts on TravelFeed may contain affiliate links. See affiliate disclosure.


Share this post

Comments

Read Next