Trip Update: Ürümqi to Khorgas

Trip Summary

We departed Ürümqi (新疆·乌鲁木齐) heading west towards the Ili region as recommended by many people. The region is less populated, with rolling green hills and dairy farming scattered across, and plenty of opportunities to camp with priceless views. We arrived at the Khorgas border crossing on July 4th after cycling a further 1000 km. This also marked the end of the first segment "China" of our Eurasia tour, and the beginning of our second "Central Asia".

Purple markers are parts we got escorted. See https://pedallingcontinents.wordpress.com/2018/06/21/broken-route-by-political-nonsense/

First segment done! Time to switch the timezone and говорить по-русски!

It is so much greener on this side, perhaps even greener before a certain country invaded

Police.exe has stopped working

It is known that Xinjiang is the safest province in the country, it is also known that Xinjiang has the highest police presence out of all of China (and possibly the world). We kid you not, as NZ have convenience store every corner, Xinjiang literally have "convenience" police station instead.

With so many police around, they don't look busy and would sit around on their phone. Increasing police number hasn't really made the place feel safer, instead it has added further annoyance to us and the local ethnic people.

Almost every instance of us walking into a shop/mall/supermarket Pheng will get in fine, but Matt will be asked immediately for identification. We believe it's because they think he is an Uigher and his movement must be registered.

Petrol Station Queues

In Xinjiang you're not allowed to casually enter a petrol station. You must bring your identification which gets registered for "Big Data Analysis" by "Big Brother". Family and friends must hop out and wait for the driver to exit on the other side.

Family hops out and wait on the other side until the driver is done

Time wasting exercise in order to fill up

Sleeping under the stars

One day we had rest at a field viewing spot for flowers but was a week early before they open. Nonetheless, after we had our rest we thought it might be safe to stay the night. Soon after two kids came to visit us from a nearby honey store and hung out with us. They were both very cute and Matt really wanted to adopt them both.

Yizhao Road (伊昭公路)

Before leaving China we had another go at one more mountain crossing. This was between Yining and Zhaosu (we did the reverse heading north), reaching an altitude of 3200 meters. The route also provided us with the most free food, water and snacks… so much that we started joking the road as our tour cycling friendly supermarket.

Border Bullshit

We had lunch and left for the border at 1 pm thinking this'll be plenty of time to cross. We were so wrong about how easy it was to leave China.

Can we leave now?

We arrived at the most obvious place to take photos. "Last picture in China" so we thought. There's one gate with an officer to the left so we approached him and he said we needed a pass (通行证), we weren't sure what that's all about so proceeded to go get a pass. Knowing how China likes to do thing their way we weren't shocked about requiring a pass to leave their country.

We arrived at this weird place where lots of Chinese people were getting their passport photo taken, we asked someone about this "pass" and that we are foreigners. They said foreigners don't need a pass and should be okay to leave. We say we've heard the opposite and he assured us that only Chinese nationals require the pass.

Back at the gate a souvenir seller tells us to go to the building on the right.

"Here is for entering China, over there is to exit China"

A lovely road sign would've made our lives a bit easier. We arrive at this unmarked place with big gates for vehicles. A guard stationed at the gate said

I'm telling you this now, you can't pass. You are required to buy a bus ticket to leave. The border can only be crossed on a vehicle.

Obviously his no good stick-up-the-bum rule-following eyes didn't see that bicycle is also a vehicle. We gave up soon after as he had no ounce of humanity left, and went to buy the bus ticket accepting yet another broken point in our route.

It's 5 pm and we arrived at the bus station. There are still busses going but the issue now is whether the bikes will fit. A driver took us to the back to let us try fit the bikes. Fortunately they fit! All four of them. We bought the ¥70 ticket and smiled knowing we can cross today!

Tetris packing of our four bikes

After fitting our belongings into the bus, the driver gives us the money gesture for the extra luggages (the bikes). We refused saying we barely have any money left. We played the waiting game and afterward he told us he'll only take us over to the village after the border, not the town as stated on the ticket.

The bus departed taking us to the gate where the guard with a stick up his bum was. Everybody hopped off and we're told all belongings must come off too! We took our belongings out and put it back on the bike. We were allowed to pass through this time.

We got scanned, stamped and our Taiwanese friend got his phone searched. Nothing unusual there so we all went through to the other side where the bus is already waiting. Not wanting to hop on the bus again, Matt asked the border guard if bicycle are allowed to cross.

Guard: Yes… um, no… I'm not sure
Matt: CAN YOU FIND OUT?

Lo and behold, yes you can cycle through, it's only walking not allowed. That guard with the stick up his bum really should go see a doctor.

We told the driver thank you for your service, we will cross the border ourselves from here onward. Good thing we didn't pay him the extra ¥50 he wanted, it would've been a hell lot more work putting the bikes back in the bus. We registered one last time before exiting the border control premise.

We casually cycled over the border, along blue painted fences. Quite refreshing actually after seeing so much red and yellow. Goodbye China.

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