As Praias do Ceará - 🏝 Beaches, Dunes and other Cliches 🏝

riche-gould
The Riche Scale @riche-gouldOctober 2018 · 8 min read

As Praias do Ceará

Yesterday was all about the Beaches east of Fortaleza, Brazil As Praias do Ceará . I teamed with three other like minded travellers, seeking sun and sea we shot off on a road trip down the coastline. If you want to get off the beaten track of Fortaleza - Jericoacoara - Fortaleza then this is for you!

State of Ceará, North Brazil

The coastline here is a paradise for beach goers and water sports for the adrenaline seeker. It's all about the jacuzzi warm waters, bleach white sand, rolling scrub covered dunes, lazy estuaries and other postcard cliches.

The day started off early at 7am, not quite military style but early enough to encourage an evening off the drinks and an early bedtime. Nestor a local uber driver was our guide, we paid him R350 to drive us around for the entire day. We could have rented a car, but finding some of these places is really hard!

Driving away from the crowded city of four million, we encountered sleepy fishing villages, filled with colourful pousadas, casa's and more importantly barracas perched upon the sand selling fresh Caipirihna's. While Fortaleza itself is great destination itself, and has it's own large piece of the beach vibe pie; heading out into the surrounding coastline offers a much more tranquil setting and gives you a better perspective of the North Brazilian way of life than the guide book tourist trap of Jericoacoara.

The local metro system

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Sabiaguaba - The River Delta

First stop was a river delta fairly close to Fortaleza. Flanking the river were square fisherman huts painted in bright colours topped with the orange terracotta tiled roofs that are so common here. Some fisherman were making the most of the incoming tide; plying their trade with nets in the river. The barracas were empty on this morning, staff were lazing around as if preparing themselves mentally for the inevitable stampede of visitors due for the weekend.

Out towards the ocean, where the waves were crashing into a stretch of rocks were more fisherman casting their lines out into the surf. The rock pools here hinted at signs of crabs scurrying away at our approach. Swimming along the shoreline was limited here by the shellfish scabbed rocks. I wouldn't recommend coming here if waves and swimming were what you seek. As a destination it was more of a curiosity seeing a local village in full swing. This area is a choice place to stop over on the weekend to enjoy an afternoon at one of the barracas, sampling fresh fish or swimming in the calm lazy water of the river delta.

  • A view of the river delta, fisherman in the background
  • Looking into one of the barraca
  • Marooned boat patiently waiting for the tide
  • Closer into the barraca

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Praia de Águas Belas - Beautiful Waters

After about one hours driving through the countryside, tracking down the coastal we parked the car upon the sand and walked up and over a dune. On the other side the land flattens out and I spy another river delta snaking out todays the ocean. We traced the delta eventually passing a school group playing in the calm waters of the delta. In the distance the sand dunes and beaches spread north and south further empathising the beauty of this region.

This beach tells a bit of a story and in a way, that story reflects the same problems the whole country. First thing; this is a small paradise. You could throw a resort here if it was in europe and be laughing all the way to your new super yacht. However this is Brazil, they're spoiled for choice we it comes to white sand and perfect weather. Here the the rustic reed built barracas were falling apart. The river had changed course and had swallowed up the hammocks that used to sit between two pegs just above the turquoise water. The people seemed indifferent here to the plight of their little slice of paradise, carrying on as normal without any real urgency for restoring the area to its former glory.

-The paradox of a new car under the decaying shade of this hut

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  • Me floating down the river, kite surfer roaring across the waves
  • The decaying barracas lining the riverside
  • Mangrooves
  • The river delta heading out towrds the ocean
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Morro Branco - Back on the beaten track

It was time for the touristy part of the day. The local guides and buggie drivers spotted the group of foreigners from a mile away and were quick to flock to us when we arrived in Morro Branco. We had discussed in the car earlier that a buggie ride was on the cards, so this flock wasn't an intrusion per say. The wallets were opened and a price of R50 each was agreed upon.

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Off on the buggie we went, down the cobbled streets of the village heading towards the highlight of Morro Branco - Falesias Labyrinth. Now I have a theory about the so called beaten track; each of us wonder seeking travellers, always eager to seek some undiscovered treasure on the other side of the world sometimes scoff at the concept of being hushed around with the other "normal tourist". Those family packs, the tour bus full of picture snapping Chinese or the old american couple with the guide book; you know what I'm talking about. However the thing with the beaten track, is that it's beaten for a reason. People go to that place because it's usually an incredible experience that the region has to offer. The consequence build up of tourist infrastructure around it is just the regretful by product and something you have to endure. Morro Branco was that place.

Morro Branco compared to Aguas Belas was a huge step up. Instead of nothing but a beach, there was now two shops, a restaurant and a beach! Arriving at the Falesias (i think it means canyon in English, but i always imagine a canyon to be larger) I was initially stunned at the profusion of colour and shapes exploding out of the seaside. After the initial stunning, I remember I had been here before briefly, so the stunning was replaced by recognition.

Meet the crew:

  • Our buggie driver
  • Us
  • Wee bit of a view you give a taste for the colours the area
  • Me standing where i shouldn't be

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The incredible colours and formations you're looking at are formed by thousands of years of earth stuff happening. Eventually humans will probably destroy these wonders, so it was nice to see them now. The locals here harvest the different coloured sand here and make art inside bottles, you know the ones where you can see through the glass and glimpse pictures that someone has painstaking made by pouring sand into that bottle. You can even pay them to having your name written with sand inside a bottle.

  • Our guide showing us some of the plethoria of colours within the canyons. If you pay his uncle, he will write your name in a bottle with sand

    Sand.jpg

  • Colours

  • More colours

  • Even more colours

  • And a fisherman fixing his net nearby, completely unrelated

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After exploring the canyon. The guy who showed us through put his hand out for money, apparently his 5 min walk through the canyon wasn't covered by the R200 already paid for when we rented the buggie. We paid him R20 in the end and to be honest I didn't really have any problem with this because they are just trying to make a living and the area isn't that popular anyway. The guide was paid and off we went on the buggy again.
Two in the front and three perched onto the back chassis clinging to the roll bars, we hooned up and down the sand dunes of nearby. It's a super fun experience and is purely designed to scare you and waste gasoline, highly recommended!

  • The beach near Praia das Fontes
  • Buggie Tracks
  • Atop the buggie, herding goats
  • Atop a sand dune, herding sand

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Canoa Quebrada

The buggie ride finished without incident or injury but did manage to create interesting new hairstyles for the passengers. After the adventures of Morro Branco we headed up to Canoa Quebrada for a late lunch. It is a town know for it's kite surfing competitions. Probably the most built of area that we visited. It has large Barraca hotels, colour barraca's built on stilts along the shoreline and also a sign carved into the sand. This marks the end of my trip down the coastline.

Me trying to make it look like I'm sailing, expect the boat is on sand still and the sail is down...

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Canoa Quebrada on the rock

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Barracas on the beach

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A local showing us his crab catching skills. I tried out my crab catching skills too and was consequently nipped on the finger

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Thanks for reading... or just rapidily scrolling though the pictures on your way to the comments section! I'm just starting out this blog stuff, but have been travelling for seven years on and off. I am also horrendous at proof reading, so just deal with that.

Tchau, Riche


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Comments
scrawly
scrawly @scrawlyOctober 2018

These collection of photos are beautiful and I really like that you the photo that you used as the thumbnail for this write up. I believe it captured the essence of this post.
                           
Congratulations for your curie vote ^_^.


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Thank you Mr Scrawly. I was surprised how much attention this got. The Curie Club do a good job


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ronel
ronel @ronelOctober 2018

Wonderful place and wonderful adventure Riche!

Travelling is indeed a good experience.
Experience matters much in our lives.
Cool photos as well.


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Yes, I love to Travelling. Unfortunately very few of us have the time/money/lack of commitments to live the dream forever


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ronel
ronel @ronelOctober 2018

Oh, no worries, everything will come in the right perfect time.
We just have to wait and be patient.


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hello stunning photos that make me want to walk on this beautiful beaches and feel this lovely sunshine:)It looks like you had a great time there:)


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Thank you for the support, it was an excellent day. My skin was peeling like a lizard the following day.


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:D need some sunscrean:D


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I would say that you were 'sanding' instead of 'sailing', lol.

What a great day you guys had! This beach hunting looks like a lot of fun. It must have been interesting to see beaches that are not that popular and compare them to beaches with built infrastructure. I would prefer the deserted ones I guess :)

I think that the barracas are built so high in case of the storm?

I like all the colors on Morro Branco. Never seen such sand and it's nice to see the different colors in his hand. Did you get him to write your name in a bottle with sand? I'd love to see how it looks like as I can't really imagine it.

Thank you for sharing! I hope to see more of your Brazil adventures!


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Hello Deriishh,

Sanding indeed!

Yes exactly with the Barracas, also the tide goes right up though and under those ones. A Barraca (which means 'hut') is basically a beach bar, but they range in size/quality. Sometimes they're 5 star restaurants, somethings just a guy with a cart and an umbrella.

Thanks for you support. I Steam Stalked you in return and am now a follower of delicious treats.


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Thank you! It's great to know that I gained a new follower! Happy days! :)


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Brazil certainly has beautiful beaches, I went to some in Pernambuco some years ago. Fantastic post!


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A pleasure. Got a long way to go to be up to your photo skills.


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Congratulations! Your high-quality travel content was selected by @travelfeed curator @jpphotography and earned you a reward, in form of a 100% upvote and a resteem. Your work really stands out! Your article now has a chance to get featured under the appropriate daily topic on our TravelFeed blog.
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niallon11
Niall @niallon11October 2018

It does look like a little slice of paradise. If you could put one mile of that into my country you would be a millionaire very fast. People would pay massive money to be there for a weekend or a trip. You have such a selection of photos that we really got to see the area. The one of the sands being my favorite from the post.


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What are you talking about? The emerald Island is renown for its sunny weather and tanned population, surely you have a beach? Hahaha yes, I am spoiled for choice here. Thanks for the support


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niallon11
Niall @niallon11October 2018

We do have plenty beaches here. However none of look quite like the one in you photos. Also no sun or tans or summer. But apart from that they are perfect. :D


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stef1
stef1 @stef1October 2018

Thank you for taking to journey along the east of Fortaleza. I have never been to Brazil but of course heard a lot, your post was a little discovery for me, of course I knew about beautiful beaches with white sand on beaches, but I have never thought that there are canyons and red sand and even as you mentioned different colours. I remember seeing such decorative bottles in shops with different colored sand but I thought they artificially colored, because could not imagine this variety. Beautiful selection of photographs and respect for such sizeable example of a crab :)


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That's awesome @riche-gould I was so happy to see my country, even when I live on the absolute far south.

Are you from Brazil? How do you like it?


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I am from New Zealand. I am living/travelling in Brazil until December.

Your country is beautiful, you're very lucky, remember that.


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That's so awesome to hear, I always say that if we solve the probles with violence, this would be top notch.


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janton
Jonboy @jantonOctober 2018

haha! howdy from Texas riche-gould! this is such and fun post but also very informative, I like the way you included the prices of what some of the things like the buggy and guides cost.

The colors of the canyon and the formations are amazing and all the photos are such good quality. Where are you posting about next?


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This reply is for you and the non-interested. I really want to post 1892 times per day and claim huge amounts of steam power, however due to mental stuff i will enforce qualitative easing.


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janton
Jonboy @jantonOctober 2018

lol! " enforce qualitative easing." that is too funny riche-gould! great sense of humor there, thank you!


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