Goa on a Bike: Chorao Island. In the rain!

“On my tenth birthday a bicycle and an atlas coincided as gifts, and a few days later I decided to cycle to India...However, I was a cunning child so I kept my ambition to myself, thus avoiding the tolerant amusement it would have provoked among my elders.”
― Dervla Murphy

Travelling in Goa in the monsoons is spectacular and at the same time terrible. Spectacular because the state is abundant with lush green trees, dripping with water, the air clean and pure, the sound of rain drops forever ringing in your ears. It is terrible, because it never stops raining. You want to go to the beach, you can’t, it is raining. You want to go to a restaurant, sure, as long as you don’t mind reaching there drenched. You want to go buy a pack of cigarettes, damn, when will that rain ever stop!

And that is why a bicycle is the best way to travel. Rain or sunshine, one can get out on the saddle of a bike. Provided the bike has fenders of course, else you are literally going to have mud on your face! The temperature at 25 degrees centigrade with lots of rain is perfect for cycling, as it isn’t too hot, nor would you catch a chill because of being wet.

Thus, started my day’s ride in Goa. After having explored the coastal route a couple of days ago, it was time to head inland.

I started pedalling from a village near the city of Mapusa, before crossing the arterial highway and entering the interiors of Goa. This part of Goa barely has any tourists. The few foreigners you will see here are people living here!

The route went through the village of Paliem before moving onto Ucassaim and then to Nachinola. For the uninitiated, the names are not pronounced as spelt. So asking for directions is rather pointless, since it is near impossible that you will be able to pronounce the names correctly for the locals to understand you! The first name is simple; it is pronounced Palem through the nose. The second name is Ookasyam, again a nasal sound. In the third, the ch is pronounced as an ‘sh’ in brush.

Once past Nachinola, I took a wrong turn towards the village of Aldona at a place called Carona. If the spirit of Corona had got me confused it would have been understandable! I didn’t realise my mistake until I came up to a familiar looking church. St. Thomas Church it was, the one I had frequented as a kid when my grandparents lived there. Right next to it is the cemetery, where my grandparents are now buried. Sometimes mistakes happen for a reason, and I wonder if there is some powerful force up there which can make you take a turn unintended. Even more powerful than Google!

I backtracked and got back on track! Towards the Calvim bridge which would take me across the currently muddy Mapusa River and onto the destination of the day Chorao Island.

The island isn’t a tourist paradise, as there is nothing to ‘do’ there! It is a quaint little place with few people other than those who live there. Zero tourists ensure you get to see more of the ‘real’ Goa. Not the things you will find in your regular tourist brochure.

In one corner of Chorao Island is the Salim Ali Bird Sanctuary. Quite the pretty place if you love nature. Salim Ali is known as the birdman of India. Unfortunately for me, the gentle steady rainfall at that point of time turned into a torrential downpour and I rode through at full speed.

Though I didn’t go in that direction, if you wish you can cross from Chorao Island to Divar Island and then to Old Goa by ferry. Old Goa is a popular tourist destination for people who like religion! St. Francis Xavier’s relics are kept in the Basilica of Bom Jesus in Old Goa, which attracts countless tourists.

From Chorao Island I caught the ferry to Pomburpa. I got very lucky there, as we spotted a crocodile while aboard the ferry. According to the locals, that is not a very common sight. So yay! Unfortunately it was raining too heavily for me to pull out my camera.

From Pomburpa I went towards Porvorim, where I passed the museum, Houses of Goa. An interesting place to get to learn the local architecture a bit more.

Once past that, it was once again time for a splendid ride through the serpentine rolling terrain that the small hills offer. As I was nearing the end of my ride, the rain eased off. Allowing me to use my camera, but with nothing left to shoot!

I will head out again to explore some more of Goa on a bike, once my legs feel better! Do read the photo captions, it will be better than the photos, I promise!

A colourful temple in Goa. Temples out here will generally be found in these very bright colours of yellow and orange

Click while the rain slows down for even a moment!

Lots of green open spaces make for a pleasant sight from the saddle

Small climbs like these filled the route. Not something which will tire you out, but enough to keep you involved

I never click selfies for a reason. I suck at it!

A small chapel in Carona

Paddy fields

St. Thomas Church in Aldona. It is more than 400 years old

The cemetery gate outside St. Thomas Church. On the gate you have written "Aiz Maka Falea Tuka", which translates to 'Today me, tomorrow you'. Basically signifying that do not mourn the departed, because eventually you will join them as well!

The Calvim Bridge over the Mapusa River

The muddy Mapusa River during the monsoons

A schoolkid walking across a railway crossing of the Konkan Railways

Trains aren't allowed on track?!

Fishing boats maybe

Waiting for the ferry to cross the river

The ferry which i hopped on

Salvador do Mundo Church

A watery grave! These are uncultivated fields which fill up during the monsoons. Even though it is illegal, the locals catch frogs. Which is quite tasty!

From the action camera. The majority of the ride was with water on my lenses and coconut trees on either side

For those who care about the cycling aspect of the trip:

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