Twice was all it took to see Queenstown and its many faces.
We were on our one month family road trip in New Zealand and we have crossed this resort town twice. Once, on our way to Milford Sound and the second, as a stop over before heading towards Mount Cook. These two occasions took place within the same week, but we had two very different experiences.
Queenstown is an urban area built around Lake Wakatipu, also called Queenstown Bay. It is magnificently surrounded by the Southern Alps.
Kawarau River Gorge and Gibbston Valley
It was Day 19. After a 1 hour drive from Wanaka, we took a detour at the Arrow Junction to visit Kawarau River and the Gibbston Valley. This is home to AJ Hackett Kawarau Bungy Center and pictureque Gibbston Vineyards. Neither of us were interested to take the leap, but we enjoyed watching those that did from the bridge.
A former Dubai based colleague visited Gibbston a few days before we arrived. She traveled to Queenstown from Sydney directly by plane for a few days. She recommended to ride and dine at Gibbston Valley. It's a half-day bike hire with lunch and a glass of wine after riding through the scenic Gibbston River Trails. They have private tastings and winery tours. Her suggestion was the main reason why we took the detour to Kawarau Gorge.
If you drive a little further to Chards Road, you'll find the exact filming location of Argonath, the Pillar of the Kings from The Lord the Rings: Fellowship of the Rings. The stone statues were digitally created, but with a bit of imagination, you'd be able to replay the exact scene and appreciate the landscape why Kawarau River Gorge was ideally selected for the movie.
Our First Stay
We were back on the road after our short detour and we quickly went to our budget accommodation for the next 2 nights. It was a lodge, a good walking distance away from the heart of town. The property consisted of old looking houses from the 80s. Each house had a common kitchen, lounge area and bathrooms with approximately 2-4 bedrooms.
Unfortunately, we didn't stay in the same house as Mum & Dad. They were booked in a smaller bungalow across the street. They shared the 2-bedroom home with a large, loud, and disorderly group who monopolized the only toilet & shower in the house as well as the kitchen. This spoiled their time in Queenstown.
Weekend Market
To cheer them up, we decided to treat them out for lunch and spend as much time far away from the lodge. We walked towards the waterfront and watched an old steamer sail away teeming with phone camera laden vacationers for a cruise on Lake Wakatipu.
It was 14 degrees Celsius outside despite the sun. It was a perfect Saturday afternoon to just sit and drink a hot cuppa by the lake. Next to the steamer wharf, market stalls sold locally-produced art, crafts and souvenirs at Earnslaw Park. There was music from street performers and every alley was bustling with activity.
Kiwi Birdlife Park
Kiwi Birdlife Park is a 5 acre family owned park dedicated to conservation work of New Zealand's wildlife. Trained wildlife keepers offer rehab to injured species and conservation programs. For around 2 hours that afternoon, we saw, watched and learned a lot about the nocturnal kiwi through their kiwi encounter, conservation show and a self-guided audio tour. We were the last guests to leave as we got carried away honey tasting inside the shop. When my daughter broke a small porcelain plate displayed, we paid for it and left with jars of their own branded Manuka Honey
Culinary Delights
Deciding where to eat was a bit of a challenge. There were plenty of restaurants to choose from offering a wide budget range and various cuisines that delight your palate.
The long queue outside Fergburger.
To queue or not to queue? I was told, "Queueing for a gourmet burger at Fergburger for 30 minutes to an hour is a must-do in Queenstown." Hmmm.. I must say the Ferg bakery buns looked delectable and the aroma of grilled meat along Shotover Street looked very tempting.
Our family refused to waste an hour of waiting. Being the rebels that we were, we went to their competition instead that evening.
Someone I couldn't remember informed us that Devil's Burger was equally good. After placing our orders at the counter, we had pints of local beer and not long after, we were seated. We were all pleased and happy with this uber-delicous burger and we didn't have to queue!
The delicious Devil's Burger!
We hardly used our accommodation's common kitchen while we were in Queenstown except for breakfast the following morning. The only non-restaurant meal we had was a family picnic at Queenstown Gardens.
Queenstown Mini Golf
Day 20: The morning sky was overcast. A round of family outdoor mini-golf was a great idea. It's an 18-hole course on Brecon Street , nestled just below Skyline Queenstown. We all got our competitive groove on and our family laughed heartily during the game.
Queenstown Gardens
We took an afternoon stroll at the Queenstown Gardens after a heavy lunch in town. It is an idyllic welcoming treat for any introvert craving a tranquil escape from all of the hustle and bustle. It's a few minutes walk from the busy center.
Within the grounds shaded by Douglas Firs, beautiful rose gardens and picnic tables rest. As you stroll further on Te Araroa Trail, a peek-a-boo view of the steamer wharf and the rest of the town center reveals itself through the trees.
The not-so-young played la pétanque anglaise in a designated area. Tennis courts, ice rink and a bowling club were some of the activities we found within the quiet park.
There was an unusual disc golf course (that was how they called it) or shall I say frisbee course. Out of curiosity, we played our way around trees and aimed at the metal baskets that served as holes with pars in order to complete the game. Families played frisbee around the walking path that ran parallel to Lake Wakatipu.
Day 21: We left Queenstown and made our way down south to Te Anau for Milford Sound. This is something that I will be writing about in my next posts.
Moving forward, we were back in Queenstown on Day 23.
Our Second Stay
Day 23: Having previously missed this attraction due to cloudy weather, we made sure not to miss it upon our return. As soon as we arrived at Arthurs Point that afternoon, we checked-in and dumped our bags in our rooms.
With a quick glance, we knew this time around we nailed the hotel accommodations. We booked 2 rooms in Shotover Lodge not far from the Shotover Jet Headquarters. Even though the location was quite distant from town, we were pleased. Happily, we drove to Skyline Queenstown and parked our car.
Mum wasn't comfortable with heights. Instead, she and my daughter, Anaïs decided to spend the afternoon together around the steamer wharf for ice cream.
Skyline Queenstown
Take an iconic Skyline Gondola ride to the top of Bob's Peak
Buzzing, the three of us excitedly got inside the Skyline Gondola. They claim to be the steepest cable car lift in the Southern Hemisphere and true enough, I felt weak in the knees during the ride but I was instantly distracted.
At 450 meters high above Queenstown, Skyline Queenstown offers a 220 degree panoramic views of Lake Wakatipu , Coronet Peak, the peaks of *The Remarkables *, Walter and Cecil Peak, and the stunning Queenstown.
Yohann and Dad had an excellent time at the thrilling Skyline Luge. While waiting to film them, I explored the shops and outdoor areas on my own. I later enjoyed a coffee at the outdoor deck of the Market Kitchen Cafe and took a peek inside the Stratosfare Restaurant.
Skyline Queenstown is also a gateway towards many nature trails from easy short walks to challenging terrain such as; Skyline Loop Track (30 minutes), Tiki Trail (1 hour), Moonlight Track to Arthurs Point (6 hours) and the most known Ben Lomond Summit (6 to 8 hours).
We all reunited later at the observatory deck to relish the spectacular views before heading back down with the gondola.
Arthurs Point and Shotover Jet
Our family enjoyed a quiet dinner in town before a peaceful night back at the hotel. The next morning, I surprised them with a morning walk at the Morningstar Track next to the Shotover Jet Beach.
I wrote a separate article and made a video about this morning walk. Read more about it here
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My Takeaway
I contemplated words that would perfectly sum up what Queenstown was all about and I couldn't think of any.
The first time Queenstown made an impression in my life was when I received a postcard by mail from @iamyohann when he spent a backpacking trip there way back in 2001. We were still in a long distance relationship then. His happy hour adventures and crazy 134 meter height jump at the Nevis Bungy Jump (the third highest in the world) immediately piqued my interest and stirred a budding intrigue for Queenstown.
We got to see the different faces of Queenstown during our 2 visits. The adventurous thrills of the luge and skyline cable car on a hot day, the quiet walks and picnic at the garden park, the culinary delights, light mornings playing mini golf, the young generation taking over the pubs, the not so young in their leisure clubs, and the shotover jet boat against the tranquility of the Morningstar Track at Arthurs Point.
Night life begins at Queenstown
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Versatile is the word I am looking for for Queenstown. Simply because it is a playground for backpackers, a fun destination for families, a romantic wedding venue, a quiet honeymoon getaway, and an idyllic setting from easy to extreme for adventurers.
Whether you are traveling alone, on a honeymoon, with friends or with family, there is something special in Queenstown for you.
Thank you for reading. I will take you to Te Anau and Milford Sound in my next post and future posts will include Arrow Town, a neighboring site to see while in Queenstown.
References: [Skyline Queenstown Official Site](https://www.skyline.co.nz/en/queenstown/) [Queenstown NZ Official Site](https://www.queenstownnz.co.nz/) [Argonath- The Pillars of the Kings / Filming Locations](https://www.movieworldmap.com/filming-locations/the-argonath/)
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